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NV5600 to FSO6406A 6 speed Fuller

1M views 2K replies 248 participants last post by  gbcummin 
#1 · (Edited)
2001 Dodge 3500, 112,000 mi, 5.9 Cummins, 4X 4, Long Bed with NV5600 6 speed transmission. Just went out again for the 3rd time. Failures were at 82,000, 97,000 and now at 112,000. Had regular dealer service. Use it to haul a 40' gooseneck and a Case 1155E loader tipping the scales at 25,000 lbs.

Parts are really hard to find. Last time I had to buy a core for $500 just to get parts for the rebuild by a heavy truck tranny shop. Problem seems to be in the 5-6 gear section with seized bearings.

Spoke with a rebuild shop in Ohio and they have started drilling lube holes in the case and bearing shell and claim they have not had any failures since they started. Anyone have experience with this procedure???

I am changing the NV5600 out for a Fuller FSO-6406A. It has a 660 HP rating with 6th OD at .78. These ratings are close to that of the NV5600.

This is not new or innovative. The Freightliner FL 70 has used the FS6406 6 speed since '93 and Ford has used Fuller's with Cummins on the F650 and F750 since 2003.

Since Fuller never has had a married transfer case, the transfer case would have to be divorced. Need to find the correct clutch set up that is used with the medium duty truck. Would need a #2 SAE flywheel housing and 1-3/4" clutch.

Parts are readily availabe for Fuller and never have to worry about synthetic oils--should be good for 500k miles or more.

Local trans shop has a NV5600 for $1000. Needs output shaft and bearing. Synchros and all gears look good. Mine will be available as soon as I complete the change-over. I suppose someone will want pictures and part numbers.
 
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#475 ·
Has anybody heard from Chaney, does anybody ever go to his website and call that number on it in new mexico to see how the adapter project is going??? Sure wish there was some recent good news about price and availablity for the deal, has anybody found a transmission shop that can build one of these transmissions in od and how much do they charge if they do, is there a transmission shop where one could buy a core and get a knowledge transmission hand to switch out it out to overdrive??? Anybody found a souce for converted ready to go od trannys anywhere??? Sure wish somebody would do a tech article on a fs06406 install or rebuild using the sae #2 bellhousing and the flywheel and clutch and all part numebrs so the rest of us could copycat your efforts, i can not do the work and have to take the truck in someplace to get it converted, still limping around with a bad nv4500,,,,,,
 
#476 ·
As far as OD, it is 4 gears, that are a strait swap. You can do the work yourself, or any shop that is capable of rebuilding a Eaton-Fuller transmission can do the work. I'm not sure what the hold up is there.

As far as finding the transmissions they are all over the country, I search google, bing, and do total craigslist searches. I got lucky and got a transmission that can be converted, and all the supporting pieces. No single shop is going to have the ultimate source for these, and seeing as how you are using different parts than stock I don't think many would be willing to warranty the work if you converted an earlier FS to FSO. They may, but I find most mechanics in most shops to be the book only way. They either do it by the book, or they cannot do it.

I will take lots of pictures of my setup and how I put it in today and tomorrow to document the conversion, but I wasn't planning on doing a tech write up. I may, we will just have to see. One of the biggest problems with this is that everyone is going to be slightly different depending on where you source your transmission from with respect to shifter, and personal preference when it comes to the crossmember. I wish I had a later model transmission that had the bosses on the top of the tranny threaded like a member here has, but mine has no bolt holes at all. This means I am going to have a different crossmember, more similar to Chaney's.

As for Chaney, he messaged me, he has had some health issues as of late and has spent some time away from projects. I don't want to go into more as it is personal and he will tell you if he wants, but know if he could he would finish this project in a heartbeat.

The adapter is all done, all that would need be done is to put it in the truck and make a crossmember, and drive shafts, for the setup. Then depending on whether or not you have an electric shift Transfer case or not you may or may not have to make longer linkage for that. Then it is done. The adapter is there though, to copy. It should work great. I have my own ideas for that too, but I don't need one on my DD and tow truck so that'll wait until my '73 F250 project gets to the table.

Chris
 
#477 ·
Gees, thats the pitts that Chaney got ill This converion is worthless without the married adapter for the 4x4 trucks as if no married adapter you have to get another transfercase, bad enuf trying to figure out where to get a core tranny for rebuilding to od, sae bell 2 flywheel on and on, gees is there anybody on the site who could buy the project from Chaney and carry on all of the good work he has done??? What a drag to get so far and get thrown out at home plate, hope he can recover, guess i will start saving for a $2800 rebuild with install for the nv4500 i have that is grinding and needing rebuild, i wont waste anymore time on this dead in the water project, what a shame, no telling how many would have ordered the adapter and got a transmission shop to start buying in direct in 6 th trans and oding them like on ebay or this site, geees, please somebody take over the adapter project for the rest of us, man i am glad i held off on buying a transmission and starting trying to convert it lots of us if like me cant have a truck down so long for the conversion especially if the lack of adapter makes the conversion cost so much its uncompetive in price for the 4x4 trucks

If anybody has a 2 wheel drive go buy a 91 Feightliner Fl-60 parts manual and serice manaual with pictures of a six od factory install with bellhosuing p/ns flywheel/ p/ns and clutches and throwout bearings and crankshaft pilot bearings one could go to wwwimageeventcom and start a photo album of the conversion, one can leave coments and lots better than the forum for the conversion about 30 a year for 3000 pictures on the web, peeps can add there converions to yours hope Mr Chaney recovers asap
 
#479 ·
Dead in the water project? Have you read this thread? Look at the pictures, they even have diagrams. It is done, you just have to have a couple of parts made, and viola it is done. Chaney was never going to make the parts just show you all the schematics on how he did it. The idea was to inspire others not start a business.

Anyway on to my problem.

HOLY CRAP THIS TRANSMISSION IS HUGE! I am having problems with getting the thing safely into the truck. I have a transmission cradle for my jack, but it isn't big enough. I get this thing close, but then it slips, or tilts, or some crazy thing that almost kills 2 or 3 people, a dog, and the neighbors cat.....

How are you guys getting the transmission safely lined up and in? Are you doing it with the complete bell housing in place or is 1/2 bolted to the transmission and 1/2 to the engine?

Next question is one I haven't seen covered yet. My transmission has a 2 wire speed sensor in the tailshaft and my Dodge speed sensor has 3 wires. Is there a way to make this work, or am I dorked? I just haven't seen this discussed yet I don't think.

Anyway, hope everyone is happy and enjoying the last few days of summer! I know I'm not! LOL!

Chris
 
#478 ·
I already have a married adapter in the works. It's going to be all billet aluminum. I am still deciding how I want to mate the Fuller output to the t-case input; i have two options that will work, but I am leaning towards simply resplining the trans mainshaft. That eliminates a lot of kludging together of stuff, and makes for the shortest possible setup :thumbsup:
 
#483 ·
2 wheel drive converters dont realize the extra $$$ needed@no adapter for sale

IS NOT A DONE DEAL, IT HAS NEVER BEEN INSTALLED, IT IS NOT AVAILABLE FOR SALE, WHAT DIFFRENCE WOULD THAT MAKE ANYWAY?? Because there is no info on what it took to install it, does it use the same crossmember, what output yoke is needed, what you 2 wheel guys forget is not everybody has a extra dead nv5600 laying around to rob out the shaft from either, what has to be done to be done for a driveshaft, IF A FREAKING ADAPTER WAS EVEN AVAIALBLE TO MARRY THE FULLER TO THE TRANSFERCASE WITHOUT tossing a perfectly good t/c to find another like a 205 to run a jackshaft, change up the 241 mount for a 205 t/c, YOU END UP DOING DOUBLE OR TRIPLE THE WORK WASTE $$$$$ AND RUN UP DOWNTIME if you had to take it to a shop

Like i said if there is no adapter made to marry fuller for a 4x4 dodge its a waste of time and money, its the usual rub, one guy claims he can get an adapter made but it will cost more than $500, yea right, nobody is that dumb, you want me to pay you to get the set up time in it,(prob $2k or more shop time) first one made, then u sell it to Novak or offroaddesign or advance adapters and they send it to china with the cnc specs and they sell it on ebay and Pirate4x4 in 2 months for $200, about the going rate for any adapter after the first preorder is made of enuff adapters to recover the setup time and discovery and butt and brain time

The Chainey/adapter needs to be installed into a 2nd or 3 or 4nd generation dodge 4x4 so the 4x4 guys can figure out how much its going to cost, how it will be mounted, is a new crossmember required, new rubber mounts, what lines up and what does not, what about the speedometer, all the tiny details the devil converter make mad, the transmissions od converting for me is just buy Ford F800 or Freightliner Fl 60 70 80 factory parts or made in china clones and stay away from the $1500 clutches from SB and Valair and factory dodge bellhousing, too much cost and sorry parts are used in the nv4500 clutch and master clutch cylinder, Figure out what Fx model one has found is the key looks like if its direct version, then go from there building up a od one, use the Factory 14 inch dual clutch for $500, avoid anything not from the Ford F800 and Freightliner FL 60 70 80 with the exact transmisson and keep it simple and CHEAPPPPPPPPPP Prob time to copy and paste this whole thread to Pirate 4x4 and all over the web and to every adapter maker out there to see if somebody can make the first one and get one installed in a 98 to 2012 dodge 4x4 2500 to 3500 Anybody want to make me one and give a quote on 3 of them?? I have done one of these medium duty converions on a 4bt 39 with a Spicer 3053a using a jackshaft, but that powerwagon had a divorced t/c in the first place, dont want to repeat that headache ever, no married adapter makes this conversion thrown out at home, Chaney realized this and pointed it out several times, its a shame he did not stay healthy to lead the 4x4 herd thru the actual adapter install and availablity for sale with instructions, hope you recover and sorry if i cant spell your name, you were one in a million and nobody here so far has made a pimple on your butt with the adapterlol
 
#484 · (Edited)
Hey, I have an idea? Learn to use punctuation and sentence structure so I don't get a headache reading your posts.

Here's another idea: you want to marry a t-case to a Fuller? Get one and figure it out for yourself. I'm getting sick of you pissing and moaning about how everyone else should be figuring it out and making a cheap adapter for you to buy. I HATE dealing with cheap asses like you that want something for nothing. No company like Advance Adapters is going to do this because there isn't enough demand. End of discussion.

I'm also getting sick of you talking about having made in China because you want it cheap. Imbalanced trade had decimated our economy and industrial infrastructure while China uses our money to build a huge military, and its due to tight asses like you that want cheap crap.
 
#486 ·
Why dont you go to the chevy forum anyways, you mess up the tread because people think you have installed the SAE#2 in a dodge, you are talking about doing the install in a blazer anyways and confuse the thread with the chevy tranny you are running, good luck on it but you need to start a different thread so as not to confuse the dodge guys and clutter up this thread,

I can tell you right now it has to be cheap and easy or nobody will ever do it, until a adapter for sale with a solid price turns up nobody in his right mind is going to attempt a install into a Dodge 4x4 truck, not everybody has the cab and front end off or could afford the downtime or expense anyways, like i said before without chainey and this adapter this conversion is a waste of time and money on a Dodge4x4 truck and could cost over $10,000 easy if you were lucky, orginally it was susposed to be a cheap conversion 6speed and the married adapter was coming, look at the orginal date of the post, thats why i steer clear until i see somebody else pick up the project and get an adapter made, its against good judgement to try this now, nobody posts part numbers, phone numbers, installs etc its a freaking mess with some many drivelous posts this shift label and this and on and on, come on back chainey please when you get well!!!!!!!
 
#487 ·
Why dont you go to the chevy forum anyways, you mess up the tread because people think you have installed the SAE#2 in a dodge, you are talking about doing the install in a blazer anyways and confuse the thread with the chevy tranny you are running, good luck on it but you need to start a different thread so as not to confuse the dodge guys and clutter up this thread,
i am putting a 6 speed Fuller behind a Cummins with a Dodge flywheel housing. How is that not relevant? This thread is about putting a Fuller behind a Cummins, and there is more than one way to do it. It's called having options. Don't like it? Go pound sand. You haven't contributed ANY tech to this thread at all. All you do is whine that nobody is spoon-feeding you a cheap adapter. So I suggest you shut up.

I can tell you right now it has to be cheap and easy or nobody will ever do it, until a adapter for sale with a solid price turns up nobody in his right mind is going to attempt a install into a Dodge 4x4 truck, not everybody has the cab and front end off or could afford the downtime or expense anyways
I'm doing the conversion my way, and I could care less if you like it or not, or think it's too expensive. You don't want to spend money to do it? THEN DON'T F****N DO IT! Geez, friggin rocket scientist :rolleyes:

Also, for the last time, his name is CHANSEY, not Chainey or Chaney.
 
#489 ·
Are you running a 2wd setup? If so, you are going to have two obstacles: The 3 wire vs 2 wire, and I would bet the Eaton reluctor has a different number of teeth vs. the Dodge unit.

I don't have any real knowledge of Dodge electronics, but usually 3 wire sensors are hall effect, while 2 wire are variable reluctance. They are not compatible. I have seen 3 wire sensors that were center-tapped cariable reluctance pickup coils, but I doubt that is the case. Could be... I dunno. Do you have a schematic for that part of your electrical system?
 
#490 ·
Nobody but you has a adapter aparently you have bought chaineys, so why the heck would anybody know about transfercase wires or give a dang??? Are you going to get it reproduced anywhere with the spline coupler adapter for the rest of us??? Like i said before bunch of no pictures, no part numbers, no tech write up, no websites where you got parts, this thread sucks with no tech, you took more than you gave, the usual on these projects, everybody is too busy to lay groundwork for others coming behind them alas,,,,,,,,Is there anybody out there able to get a adapter made for this converion??? This conversion thread needs somebody to get advance adapters, novaks, offroad design and some medium duty truck transmission shops to get involved so we can get adapters made for the rest of us with 4x4 dodge trucks with married transfer cases
 
#492 ·
Have you called Advance Adapters or Novak to see about getting an adapter built? If not, why not?

You could probably have an adapter built by a student that needs a project at a community college that has a machine shop class.

You could sell your truck and buy something that doesn't have tranny issues.

You have to pay to play one way or another. Sweat equity, or open your wallet. If you don't know how, don't want to learn, and you can't afford it, this may not be the hobby for you.
 
#493 ·
speedo

Not sure about the dana 60s or 70s but the dana 80 rear end has the speedo in it, to answer the question about hooking it up is we dont have to mess with it because its in the rear end not on the transmission, but if your going with truck that doesnt have the speedo in the rear end you might have to put a seperate non oe speedo in if you cant figure the wiring out.
 
#495 · (Edited)
Not sure about the dana 60s or 70s but the dana 80 rear end has the speedo in it, to answer the question about hooking it up is we dont have to mess with it because its in the rear end not on the transmission, but if your going with truck that doesnt have the speedo in the rear end you might have to put a seperate non oe speedo in if you cant figure the wiring out.
I have a Dana 80 as this is a 3500 dually but I never saw a speedo in the rear. I have to admit once I found a 3 wire sensor in the tailshaft of the NV4500 I didn't look at the rear. It is a 97 12 valve 2wd. I am hoping they put the same sensor in the rear as 4x4's

I will look tomorrow again, hopefully this isn't an issue for me. I am all done with the crossmember, and as I thought, my booger welds are strong but UGLY....I have the slave cylinder mocked up, and ready, all I have to do is weld it, and put the whole system back up. I am very excited because it is looking like a reality! WOOT!

Hopefully I'll have a report in a few days how she feels guys!

Chris
 
#496 ·
The later trucks, ie 96 or 97, started picking up the speedo signal from the rear axle. they did this by using the antilocking brakes sensor. It should be in the center section of the housing. I never delt with the electric speedo but most run on either 1000 or 2000 RPM signal per mile. Should be a pretty easy adapt if you dont have the ABS sensor. If not do a earch on here for Dakota Digital and you can find some info on them. A few people used them for trans or transfer case swaps.
 
#497 ·
Mine has both the ABS sensor and the three wire thing in the transmission. I just got the conversion "done" for now and :shock::shock::shock::shock: This thing is a HOSS!!! But no speedo. Borrowing a Garmin to be sure to keep it legal on my trip. I'm 100% satisfied so far.

What I am wondering is if you burnin oil, or anyone else has a wiring schematic from a 97 and a 98 so I can see if there is a difference in the signal at the actual speedo. If not maybe I can wire the sensor into the speedo, and be done with this problem. I am going to look for myself, but if someone has it already, that would be tops as I am tired after 40+ hours strait to get this truck ready for the trip.

Thanks to all for your help. This has been one heck of an experience and I will do it again here in a few months to my fiance's truck who's syncros are out in her nv4500 in her 94 CTD. Good times! Thanks all!

Chris
 
#498 ·
By HOSS you mean that you have a very solid 'feel' when you shift? These transmissions come with levers 27 or 32" long. I was wondering how short your stick is .. and if you noticed a difference in the shifting effort from your previous gearbox? Gives me an idea how long of a stick I need.
What slave setup did you use and also what clutch master were you using and did you have to adjust the play. Did you have a problem with the pedal stroke to release the clutch.. and if any how you fixed that problem.?

Thanks to all for your help. This has been one heck of an experience and I will do it again here in a few months to my fiance's truck who's syncros are out in her nv4500 in her 94 CTD. Good times! Thanks all!

I would plan sooner than later to fix your girlfriends truck. Bad sychros create lots of problems and can cause further damage to other drivetrain parts because of stress. She likely is getting caught between gears from time to time and having to double-clutch to make smoother shifts. What is really going to upset her at a nearing date is that she will be driving along, pulling her horses or whatever she uses it for.... and suddenly the gearshift will jump out of gear she will put it back in gear and it will drive for a while and then do it again and then with more frequency until she will literally have to keep her hand on the stick to keep it in gear. When the shiftlever starts to jump out, she will have a few days if not hours before the tranny will disintegrate. I know because this has happened to me on 2 trucks. Bad synchros are caused by 1 of 2 things... loss of lubricant or heavily forced downshifts... especially under load.
 
#499 · (Edited)
Made the 700 mile trip with a 4 horse trailer with living quarters in tow, and LOVED it. It made the trip with no problems. It was a bit louder than I liked but I haven't closed up the transmission hole, just shoved a towel over the hole. Going to set something up where I can use the stock rubber/steel cover so it keeps the seal, and keeps the heat out...OHH THE HEAT.

I can vouch for this conversion, it rocks.



The synchros went about 2 years ago on 3rd. Now 4th have gone as well, there is no excessive or heavily forced downshifts, it is 280k miles. The transmission has never popped out of gear, once in it's life. In fact I have had much less problems out of her nv4500 than the one in the 97 I just replaced that only has 160k miles.

That girl speed matches perfectly and doesn't even need the clutch, and never, and I mean never grinds. I don't have a typical girl, I guarantee it. She babies that truck and upkeeps it herself. The transmission fluid is checked every single time the oil is changed. I hate to say it but in some ways she is better than me at maintenance. I will sometimes let checking the fluid in the tranny go to every other oil change.

All that said, it is 100% paramount I get that truck fixed by the end of October. We have our national show in one month and then she will string me up by my toenails if I don't fix her truck after that.

As for the shifter. Ummm....that's a bit of a interesting deal. I don't know how long it is. I made 2 cuts to make it almost the same length as the stock NV4500 and I don't have a problem with shifting it. It is significantly harder to shift than the NV, but not harder than the T-19 in our 80 F250. I would say it is less than 20 inches over all. It shifts firmly but not impossible. What you won't do is shove that SOB into a gear it doesn't want to go into! LOL! The shift pattern is very close with a shifter that short, and it takes some getting used to at first. Once I figured it out, I never missed a shift. It is much easier to shift without the clutch as well. Start and stop with it, then just match revs, click click. I am in LOVE with this transmission. It is STOUT.

As for the clutch. That is a whole ordeal I'm not even going to give pictures as it did not end up as elegant as I would like, but I used the stock slave and master cylinder on that setup. The transmission has some linkage on it, and I adapted that. It was mechanical with a long arm. I looked at Chansey's very closely and set my slave cylinder to push on the mechanism at about the same length as his. I did make the setup adjustable with multiple holes drilled in the arm and multiple locations in my bracket drilled so I could move it if it proved too much pressure for the stock slave cylinder or I needed more movement etc. It wasn't needed, doing my best to emulate what Chansey did worked perfect. The only thing is my hydraulic line hangs too low. I am going to fix this with a new bracket and maybe a different throwout in the future but for now this works perfect. I used the manual linkage and just adapted it to my setup. Since the rod comes out of the slave cylinder I used the manual setup and cut it shorter to fit in and it works perfect.

All together I am very happy with my conversion. I will change things in the future, mostly how the clutch linkage mounts up and how it tucks up next to the transmission, but otherwise it works like a charm.

Chris.
 
#501 · (Edited)
The usual, no pictures and part numbers, how many of these converted trucks are 4x4 trucks and not able to use 4 wheel drive and are running in 2 wd due to no adapter?? Why did you guys not just buy the factory Freightliner of Ford F800 clutch slave cylinder brackets, and hose with the bleeder, what exact Fullers are you running, direct or od's that you did yourself?? Got any pictures of the crossmember you used?? Still the only way to use these transmissions is to buy another transfercase and set it up divorced if you have a 4x4 truck, has anybody tried to buy a adapter off of any of these posters in the thread or is it still just a dream?? What yoke are you guys running on the back of your fullers and how did you attach it to your factory drivesahft?? Got any pictures and part numbers?? Still waiting for a price and availablity for the married adapter, the converting to a another divorced transfercase still makes the fuller not price competive, its faster and cheaper to just buy another nv4500 nv5600 g56 than install a fuller if you have 4x4 truck, the shop in Picacyune Miss that was building the clark 280v0 adapters to the np241dhd is out of business, called today, got a guy on Pirate looking at the adapter but the rub is the inside splines needed in the coupler, that machine is very rare, lots of shops i called can respline or cut splines but not cut inside splines, anybody know a machine shop who can make coupleres in house?? The only transfercases out there are the 205 divorced out of older fords with drivers drop and the dodges and chevys with passanger drops, there is a 273 divorced transfercase with yokes but it is backordered from chevy, the plant that makes np now nventure is shutting down in Sept according to Magna;s website, the new company that bought them, New np 273 case would work if you have a passanger drop front axle like the old dodges and chevys, if you have a 2 3 generation 4x4 truck the only way to run a fuller fx or fxo is with a np 205 divorced out of a old ford driver side drop,,,alas the adapter we need,,,,,,
 
#506 · (Edited)
Is the S key not working in your brain or something? It is fSo. FULLER SYNCHRONIZED OVERDRIVE. F.S.O. No x. Mother of god. Also it is ChanSey. Not chainy or chauney or whatever.

With that out of the way, no I don't have pictures. Want to know why? Because I did it in 3 days. Whole conversion, start to finish, and I then jumped on the road for 700 miles to make it to a horse show that I use to earn my money. I'm sorry I could not provide you with all the parts needed for you to bolt it into your truck, or give exact pictures, but it wasn't exactly my driving factor. Getting to the horse show and keeping my clients was you whiny clown.

Use the NV4500 and or the 5600 then and break it again if this is too difficult for you. I have no problem fabricating brackets, cross members, shifters, and setting up a whole new driveline for this. It is not, will not, and cannot be bolt in. It is pretty close considering the size and such, but there is fabrication. No this is not a 4x4. My tow trucks are not 4x4. Never have been never will be. They tow better being lower, with a lower COG, get better mileage, and it isn't necessary. I have 4x4's for farm work, and tow trucks to reliably get my animals to and from horse shows.

If enough decent people (Not W500) ask, try to get under the truck and take some pictures of how I did my clutch setup. (No comments about booger welds, or crappy fab, that went very obnoxiously and I am just glad it worked like my head said it should) I am taking my time now and redoing it with some class then I will post again once that is done.

The cross member was not very hard. My problem was I didn't want to build a whole new one so I used the stock one cut the center out, and plated it, used a small section of C-channel and went right under the transmission. It isn't pretty either, but it is strong as anything, and fits.

I actually had to lengthen my driveshaft and that was easy. I took the measurements and just had a new front drive shaft made. $400 later and viola I had a driveline again. As for the yoke it is apparently a 1610 I believe? It measures 5.25" from tab to tab, and each end is 1 7/8" diameter. It is HUGE. I took my old drive shaft to the machine shop, gave them the measurements we discussed them, matched some parts, and what I got worked perfect. I was amazed. Oh, be prepared the U-joint was $105.

I'm very happy with my conversion, but I will fix my "problems" here soon. One is the clutch slave cylinder, its position and design makes the hose hang too low for my tastes, so I will get a new style, probably like Chansey's and make a new bracket. It will clean that up lots. Then the other is bending the shifter so my fiancé can reach the shifter easier. The length isn't too bad, it is just shorter than stock, but it is too far to the right for her. So some blue wrench and a bit of work should point that a bit more towards the driver and fix some of that problem. The last is resealing the cabin. To get that thing up enough in the body means the shifter is almost too high in to get the stock rubber seal in there. I will cut the hole about 1" all the way around, then put 3/4" of sheetmetal in to raise the hole up, so I can use the stock rubber seal, hopefully keeping some of the heat out.

Chris
 
#502 ·
The usual, no pictures and part numbers, how many of these converted trucks are 4x4 trucks and not able to use 4 wheel drive and are running in 2 wd due to no adapter?? Why did you guys not just buy the factory Freightliner of Ford F800 clutch slave cylinder brackets, and hose with the bleeder, what exact Fullers are you running, direct or od's that you did yourself?? Got any pictures of the crossmember you used?? Still the only way to use these transmissions is to buy another transfercase and set it up divorced if you have a 4x4 truck, has anybody tried to buy a adapter off of any of these posters in the thread or is it still just a dream?? What yoke are you guys running on the back of your fullers and how did you attach it to your factory drivesahft?? Got any pictures and part numbers?? Still waiting for a price and availablity for the married adapter, the converting to a another divorced transfercase still makes the fuller not price competive, its faster and cheaper to just buy another nv4500 nv5600 g56 than install a fuller if you have 4x4 truck, the shop in Picacyune Miss that was building the clark 280v0 adapters to the np241dhd is out of business, called today, got a guy on Pirate looking at the adapter but the rub is the inside splines needed in the coupler, that machine is very rare, lots of shops i called can respline or cut splines but not cut inside splines, anybody know a machine shop who can make coupleres in house??
 
#504 ·
The clutch slave off the F750-F650 is crap. The mount is horrible... it is on top of the transmission and it would be in the way. You my friend, joined this forum for what .... berate.. complain... destructive criticism.. entertain us wit your poor English.? And you have a really horrible Attitude
Still not sure, how to work out the master-slave relationship, but likely will end up with an F650 master... as long as it matches the bore of the slave.
AS far as the Fuller meshed to transfer case problem.... If you read through this entire tread carefully, you will find your answers. This is a read on Fuller to Cummins and eventually to transfer case. I joined to give and get info to fill in my particular puzzle. Mine is just a 2 wheel drive F250 that is getting a Cummins transformation with a Fuller. When I get it done.. i will make a video showing it being driven and of its structure from underneath with the mounts and unique parts. a real education.
 
#503 ·
If you whine enough are you hoping one of the guys that are done will stop by and swap in a Fuller trans for you? Be happy with the wealth of info already in this thread. This is not a cookie cutter swap each is going to be a little different. I am currently putting my 24 valve in a 85 k30 chevy with a Fso6406 and a divorced 205 ford Tc. I have found every thing a need to convert my trans from Fs to Fso and several different ideas for mounting the trans.
I am curious as to what signal is used from the speed sensor on the out put of the Eaton. I am going to talk to Red Line gauges about converting a factory dash to use the eaton signal in my chevy and the 24 valve alternator for the tach.
Does any one else have any ideas on the speedo and tach?
 
#505 ·
Congrats to 5.8 for getting that thing done and running.

I have no leads on the speedo sensor, I was hoping one of you guys would figure it out for me. Oh and while your at it, bring a case of beer and finish my truck for me. Thanks.

No need to fight gentlemen, ignoring is better than engaging, especially when you all have you own individual theories and ideas to bring. There is no RIGHT WAY, just another way. And thank God for that, keep the thread alive, and put down your dukes. Can't say I havnt had a good time reading though.

FYI, the people who do this swap are NOT the people who believe in the "BOLT ON" fantasy. We improvise, adapt and overcome, no matter what the obstacle.

So w500, sit back, read this entire thread and all these guys builds (find them, they are good) do some research, and butt out until you have something to bring to us that won't make us laugh and later pray that you wise up.
 
#509 ·
Oh great. Now we have w500Cummings polluting a thread over on 4BT Swaps. His name on that forum is 1964w200Crewcab. He's pulling the same whiney crap over there :rolleyes:

SAE #3 6 Speed Options - Page 2
 
#511 ·
If you want the closest thing to a tech write up go on to chanseys website. how long has chansey been running a 4 wheel truck in 2x like 3 years. when in the process of converting you seldom think to remember to bring your camera to the shop.

as far as slave cylinder goes, i just got one for a 95 cummins because of its bigger bore and made a braket that mounts under the large trans to bell housing bolts pointing the slave staight up. i also threaded the end for a 5/16ths clevis. then welded a tab on the release shaft to the rotation. for a big dual disc the pedal seems softer then stock. as far as holding the transmission up, I made brackets that bolt onto the studs for the rear bearing retainer.
 
#513 ·
seeing as i dont off road the truck it didnt seem like and issue. as far as the turbo, it sounds cool and exhaust brake works nice but it takes so much time to dial it in right. ive had it in for 4 months and it still needs more tuning.
 
#514 ·
no pictures, this thread is worthless
 
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