Mag-Hytec or factory finned cover.... - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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Mag-Hytec or factory finned cover....

Engineer's step inside..

So generally speaking fin surface area has a lot to do with heat removal and generally the more fluid capacity you have the bigger "heat capacitor" you have. So I'm attempting to build a G56 "Max Tow" truck. Doing a Southbend organic DD street/towing clutch, a very elaborate dual stage cooler system for the G56 which leaves the rear end. 3.73 gear seems optimum for highway cruise RPM which should generate a little more heat than the 4.11 that comes with the Aisin max tow package. While I don't intend on towing near 40k, I do intend on towing at 32k ish continuously for long trips. Having found out even with a light load on level ground with Delvac overfilled 1 qt the transmission runs 230*, I know the trans is the main focus but didn't want to forget about the rear.

Which cover would yield the most reduction in operating temperature? When you could get the factory cover for $100 it was a no-brainer to go that route. Now they are $200+ and many places that have them advertised that low are out of stock. They are also on MOPAR backorder. You can get your hands on one but the price is close to Mag-Hytec cover. The factory cover has much larger fins and more of them so I would think it would cool better but the Mag-Hytec has a larger capacity.

Opinions?
...engineering opinions?
.....or even better, real world testing results? (grasping at straws)


1996 12-Valve NV4500 RWD 3.54 Club Cab. on 19.5's. 46X,XXX miles and still strong! 2006 4wd Auto Laramie! 287,XXX, So far so good! 2016 Laramie mega cab G56 4x4 dually. Love this one too!
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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How Do I delete this post? It was a double post by accident?

1996 12-Valve NV4500 RWD 3.54 Club Cab. on 19.5's. 46X,XXX miles and still strong! 2006 4wd Auto Laramie! 287,XXX, So far so good! 2016 Laramie mega cab G56 4x4 dually. Love this one too!
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 01:15 PM
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How are you making a tranny cooler? Interested as I have a g56. What is that clutch rated at?
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K9Kodi View Post
How are you making a tranny cooler? Interested as I have a g56. What is that clutch rated at?
i believe that clutch is rated to tow 30k lbs

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-10-2017, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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To he honest, I don't really care what the clutch is rated at; I'm super easy on clutches. I had a Con "O" single disk in my 96' NV4500 and towed almost as heavy a good bit and got over 200k out of that clutch.

So the set up I'm doing is:

I already have these on each side of the trans with just an Autometer factory match gauge connected to it (Which is how I saw the 230* temp with what I would consider a relatively light load):

TDS - PTO Cooler Cover, Dodge G56 Xmission, Corrects fluid level, 1/8 NPT, USA | eBay

After looking at all the specs, I decided on this pump:

Pumps - Mocal Micro Oil Scavenge / Circulation Pump

Iím going to run a Moroso remote mount filter assembly.

Iím going to run a dual stage cooler. Iím going use a 180* on and 165* off thermostat (with a manual ďonĒ override) on the pump which will circulate fluid. Iím going to keep both coolers between the frame rail and step rail tucked up inside. Hoping under light load this cooler will do most of the work as it will get some forced air flow (Iíll screen the front of it to keep large debris from damaging or clogging it):

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...FZG6wAodPiME6Q

after it circulates through the forced air ďscoopĒ cooler, if it isnít cooling enough a second thermostat is in line before it goes back into the transmission to turn the fans on the following cooler :
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-13740

Seems like a lot of work but I wanted to consider 2 things. I wanted to ensure there wasnít going to be a bunch of potential drain-back to grossly overfill an already overfilled transmission when the pump was off. Iím trying to keep everything near level with the transmission fluid level. I also donít want the fans to run automatically every time the pump is running but did want the extra capacity for cooling at low speed on a mountain pull. I also wanted a pump that was rated for continuous duty at 250*+ to ensure long life.

Iím going to be using all stainless braided line and AN fittings on everything as well.

Everything is ordered and hopefully will be here this week so I can get a got bit done over Easter. We'll see!
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1996 12-Valve NV4500 RWD 3.54 Club Cab. on 19.5's. 46X,XXX miles and still strong! 2006 4wd Auto Laramie! 287,XXX, So far so good! 2016 Laramie mega cab G56 4x4 dually. Love this one too!
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Anybody have an opinion? Anybody have a before and after on the Mag-Hytec?

1996 12-Valve NV4500 RWD 3.54 Club Cab. on 19.5's. 46X,XXX miles and still strong! 2006 4wd Auto Laramie! 287,XXX, So far so good! 2016 Laramie mega cab G56 4x4 dually. Love this one too!
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 08:43 AM
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I'm not sure it's all that necessary to go that far with transmission cooling on a manual. lots of guys have them towing heavy without any problems and no extra cooling.

2011 CCLB 3500, G56, 4'' TBE, Sinister EGR delete, EFI Live by Anarchy
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 09:13 AM
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I think it may be overkill but I cannot wait to see it. Parts look awesome sir.
I only did the Trans Cool kit and 2 Gallons of Mobil Delvac 50 https://www.genosgarage.com/product/...ission-coolers
So this would be a major step up!

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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I was towing a dump trailer that weighs about 5k empty and it had about 3-4k in material in it last week and with the delvec overfilled 1 qt the trans temp in 6th gear at 70 mph on level ground in 90* temps yielded as high as 230-235* transmission temp by the gauge and 220* with my infrared gun pointed at the case (approximately). My feeling is that it can't be good for anything especially gear mesh considering the expansion rate of aluminum to run them that hot. I can only imagine how hot with the big race car trailer in the mountains it would run. My goal is to keep it under 195* at all times no matter what the load. It does make me wonder if the heat is a big contributing factor to dual mass flywheel failures too (not to discount the ty design, just saying the excess heat can't help).

I'm still looking for some good info on the rear end mainly.

1996 12-Valve NV4500 RWD 3.54 Club Cab. on 19.5's. 46X,XXX miles and still strong! 2006 4wd Auto Laramie! 287,XXX, So far so good! 2016 Laramie mega cab G56 4x4 dually. Love this one too!
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 05:40 PM
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I am afraid you are correct. It worries me what this 24k plus load would have registered for trans temp. pulling out of Price Utah to the Top of Soldier Summit. Had to Grab 3rd right before the top. kept EGT's 1200 to 1300 max.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/U.S._Route_6_in_Utah
a little info. also one of the top 4 steepest grades in the US and top 5 Deadliest
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2006 Blue Laramie DRW. 3500 5.9 G56 Mobil Delvac 50, Tans Cool PTO Covers, GDP Fuel Boss, GDP Ladder Bars, GPD big line kit, UHE Cat 416 1225, Dieselsite Coolant Filter, GDP intake, Cool Hose, Timbrens, 36k with Horses in Trailer,Throttle Up Industries Dual Fuel Filters

Last edited by utahtrapper; 04-12-2017 at 06:06 PM.
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post #11 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 05:53 PM
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The trans cooler has crossed my mind before.

I personally would just run one thermostat,one cooler, and use a derale fan controller to kick on at 190-200.

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post #12 of 22 (permalink) Old 04-12-2017, 06:40 PM
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I thought about and researched a little about this very thing. I would agree with mfsuper about a single cooler and what not. Simple is always better.

Another thing to try before spending the big bucks is a ram air duct for the trans itself. From what I have read it seems where the trans is at is actually a dead spot for good air flow. Would seem that a solid aluminum heat sinc should cool a little better if provided decent air flow.

If you already have the temp sending unit may be worth trying out for S&Gs.

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