Very disappointed in the Ram OEM brake controller on my new 2016 3500 (build date 8/15). After reading all the threads complaining about the Ram OEM brake controller, I was so hoping my new '16 would be the exception . . . unfortunately, no-go.
When the breakaway switch is activated on most trailers it applies maximum current to each brake---typically 3.0-3.5a. Ideally, one should be able to obtain similar current using the truck's brake controller (OEM or aftermarket with the slide switch in the maximum position).
With the OEM brake controller on my '16 Ram 3500 set to "heavy electric" and the gain set to maximum (10) I only get 2.0a at each brake assembly. I get 3.3a with the trailer's breakaway switch activated. FWIW, I get slightly better current (2.3a) with the OEM brake controller set to "heavy electric with hydraulic". 2.0a - 2.3a is enough to feel the brakes working, but not nearly enough current for an emergency braking situation.
I got similar readings when I checked the OEM brake controller current on my BIL's Ram 2500. Some will say we both have bad grounds; however, when we hookup our trailers with a truck that has an aftermarket brake controller we get the full 3++ amps. In my opinion this kinda rules out a ground problem.
For those that do have an OEM Ram brake controller that works "properly", it would be interesting to compare current readings. It's possible that some trailers only need ~2.0 amps to brake "properly". Unfortunately, others like myself need the full 3.0++ amps to brake properly in an emergency.
So, unless, there's something I'm missing in terms of adjusting the Ram OEM brake controller, or there's some kind of fix involving a flash update, it appears I'll be forced to install an aftermarket brake controller.
For those who have replaced their Ram OEM brake controller with an aftermarket brake controller, where is the brake controller pigtail/plug located? When replacing the OEM brake controller with an aftermarket, is there any kind of dealer flash required or is it simply plug and play?
Check the max voltage output, I hear it's like 7 on the RAM controller.
But I like it. When any of my trailers are connected and expect to feel nothing when I hit the brakes. I don't expect to feel the trailer stopping me and I don't expect to feel the trailer pushing either. Just a neutral feeling which is what I feel.
The plug is just behind the key/PTS switch, remove the panel below the steering wheel and you will see it tucked up, its a grey 4 wire (I think).
I had a OEM brake controller in the past and it worked well. Every other truck I used the same Tekonsha unit I've had foreverm in fact, I just installed it in my 16 the other day.
Nobody has a factory controller that puts out 12'volts at low or no speed. The unit is tied in with the stability control and antilock systems. At highway speeds it will apply full voltage if adjusted properly. Do a search and you'll find how I tested the system.
It's my understanding the output of the Ram IBC OEM brake controller is PWM (pulse wave modulation). Don't believe you're going to get an accurate reading with a standard VM--probably need a scope. I haven't viewed the output on a scope, but if I had to guess the voltage peaks remain constant with only the "duration" of the pulse wave varying with the amount of braking force. Maximum braking should result in one constant, unchanging pulse wave, pure DC, 100% in duration and voltage.
In any case, even if you had pure DC, straight line on a scope (vs. PWM) at the proper voltage, without sufficient current you're still SOL. IMO, current is what does the real work here.
As for being adjusted properly, if you have everything max'd out, "heavy electric/heavy electric w/hydraulics" and gain set to maximum (10), and still don't have enough current delivered to the brakes . . . what other adjustment can increase output beyond these settings?
I have a somewhat related brake control question for you guys.
If you're rolling in the parking lot no throttle no brake just maybe 5mph, and you manually squeeze the controller and the gain shows 10, should the trailer tires lock on gravel? Mine slow down the trailer and truck from 5 to maybe 2mph... but on old brake controllers I could easily lock the tires on pavement with 3 horses let a lone an empty trailer on gravel.
What you're describing is exactly what happens with my trailer while connected to my '16 Ram 3500's IBC (OEM integrated brake controller set on "heavy electric" and/or "heavy electric w/hydraulic" and gain set to 10). With a friend's truck, which has an aftermarket brake controller, I can lock up the wheels at will.
My truck is 2015 Ram 3500 DRW 4x4 CCLB Aisin 3.73
Last time out towing 20,000# and i noticed right off my OEM brake controller wasn't working to good and I had it set to heavy electric/hydrolic and 8.5 on my triple axle RV. Then about 10 miles later it was back to working properly. Have 7400 miles on this new Ram and the controller has always worked good before so don't know what's going on now. I'll be towing 6000# this morning so I'll be seeing if this little trailer acts better. Trailer brakes aren't that big a deal with this trailer being 6000# with TH an EB on but they are with 20k behind it. I'll let you all know how the controller acts today. I'll be doing after market controller myself if I have one more incident like the last time towing. Don't get me wrong my truck still stopped the 20k load just fine but not like it should have. I'm taking my truck in for warranty recall so going to complain about the brake controller to them and see what they say.
Update;
While towing my smaller dual axle trailer this weekend 5000# total load I set the controller and was about to lock up the tires on dirt at 6.5 setting light electric. Guess it's working OK this time out.
I have my gain set at 10 for my 12k lbs 5th wheel. Im taking it in monday to have it looked at. Dealer did order another brake controller just in case the oriignal one is faulty.
Have you searched the topic? Another controller isn't going to change anything. Max voltage available at low speed is 7.5. It's working as designed. The problem is the people who designed it have never towed. The dealer won't be any help. I previously explained how to test the voltage while towing. Do a little homework. It'll save you a lot of grief. As for the gravel test, yes it should lock up but it never will because of the factory controllers programming. If you're unsure about your trailer brakes, unplug the wiring at the truck ,then pull the breakaway switch. If the brakes lock you know it's the controller that's giving you grief. Ram will only deal with this after a bunch of folks get hurt.
If you researched as you claim you found multiple threads with posts from several members who have made multiple dealer appointments to no avail. The value I added was hrs of testing to show the operation of the controller and its limitations. I also explained how to set up and test yours so you could speak intelligently to someone about the problem.You obviously haven't done all of your homework. Knock yourself out. Kaboom, at 50 mph with max braking the unit will deliver 12 volts. The problem arises when coming to a stop, especially on a down grade. As the vehicle slows the computer pulls voltage from the trailer brakes. Makes stopping at the foot of a hill quite interesting.
To eliminate the itbm you will need to go the dealer,have them remove the option code from the FCA database,remove the controller ,then reconfigure the bcm.Otherwise you will always have dtc's
If you search on the trailer forums, almost everyone with a 13+ is having the same troubles. Has to do with it being tied to the TIPM. IF anyone has an aftermarket controller working in one of these trucks you would be a god to them. They say the brake light wire in the factory harness will cause a fault code if hooked to. Had this trouble with a 15 1/2 ton and I had to hook up the factory unit. They say Ram is working on a fix, but they don't seem to be in a hurry. Won't give full power unless at speed and drops off when speed is reduced for some strange reason. They seem to actually get more power on the lower setting which no one can figure out.
Maybe lurk on some of the trailer sights and see if they have a solution yet? Good luck.
This "feature" was introduced beginning with MY15 production. It is not known by anyone that I can find why RAM did this but I discovered that once the vehicle is traveling under 30 MPH, the ITBM limits the maximum to about 70%, or a little less than 7 volts, to the trailer's brakes. This is why the OP is seeing low amperage, it is because the voltage is lowered limiting the amount of current flow.
If you try to set the gain following the owner's manual, you will quickly discover, because of the "feature", it is impossible to set the gain value for your trailer correctly. Only some people will see this issue, it is dependent on how much power your trailer brakes require to provide a force stopping action. I have a set of Dexter 7K axles on my fiver, they need a minimum of 10.5 volts to get forceful braking.
There is a 49 page thread about this over on the ram forum under trailers and towing. I've also seen two or three threads about this issue here.
^^^^^^Because they are trying too hard to cater to the people who have no or very little experience towing by trying to apply stability control to the trailer as well. Not to mention they are are trying to vary brake pressure based upon speed to make a truck and trailer feel like a car. Those of us who have been towing for years are looking for a much more black and white type of predictable experience and let's face it, it's not going to happen with these computer controlled entigrated brake controllers.
Yes, but the discussion revolves around the fact that max voltage output at low speed is 7.5 volts. Low volts, low amps. And the diagnostics can be done with a $10 multi meter. All you've done is muddy the waters.
Granted, for those who want to keep this process as simple as possible, I can appreciate your feeling that I'm muddying the water. However, for those that may want to get beyond the very basics, being aware of alternate testing options (i.e., use of a clamp-on ammeter) may actually bring some added clarity and empowerment to the process.
It is a lot easier to measure the voltage than the current provided to the trailer brakes when operating albeit either will tell you there is a problem. If the ITBM limits the braking duty cycle to around 70% (at vehicles speeds under 30 MPH), the equivalent voltage of the brake signal is about seven volts which is about 1.75 amps per brake. What the RAM's ITBM is essentially doing is tuning off the trailer's brakes once the travel speed falls below 30 MPH, not good at all. This is the second problem.
The first problem is you can't set the ITBM's gain following the owners manual because the brake slider switch doesn't over ride the 70% output at speeds under 30 MPH.
The above assumes your trailer brakes require a higher amount of power than seven volts or 1.75 amps per brake to stop, because of this not everyone is affected.
Installed a new Tekonsha P3 brake controller in our Ram 3500 yesterday. Also used the Tekonsha 3024-P pigtail that was made specifically for the 2015-2016 Ram 1500/2500/3500 trucks.
Obtained 225ma of braking current with the OEM IBC (each axle). Got 310ma with the P3. No error codes on the EVIC (just a warning that the OEM IBC is "disconnected" when trying to access "trailer tow"). No dealer reflashes.
For those that report acceptable braking with their OEM IBC it would be interesting to see if the particular trailers they're towing are just simply able to obtain acceptable braking with only 65% voltage/current.
FWIW, if Ram comes out with a firmware fix for the OEM IBC brake controller (that results in 100% voltage/current), it's only a 15-20 min. job to uninstall the P3 and revert operation back to the OEM IBC.
I installed mine today and will be picking up my trailer on Sunday. Looking forward to having normal trailer brakes.
Did you unplug both connectors from the ITBCM or just the one required for the P3? I unplugged the second one thinking the ITBCM should not have any input or outputs connected - Thoughts?
the stock brake controller works FINE, i tow on a regular basis (everyday) 10000 to 35000 trailers, and it works as designed, (don't ask for trailer settings, i have 3 trailers and they all have different gains), but on my bigtex tandem dually goose neck loaded (30000#'s), gain at 8.5 on heavy electric, it slows me down without locking, but in a few occasions i had to get on the breaks hard it did lock up, the system will apply voltage according to speed and how "violent" you press the break pedal. Just works different than aftermarket or FORD an GM.
Funny, no one else can lock a wheel. I went from a BrakeSmart in my 04 which worked well on a setting of 15 on a scale of 1-100, to a trailer that wants to push me through a stop sign with the ITBM set on 10 in my 15. Same 9 ton GN. Any controller that pulls voltage out as you slow is a recipe for disaster.
I just lost an axle on one of my trailers and put a new one on. I had new backing plates(brakes) put on and my brakes locked up this morning when leaving the parking lot. I had to lower the gain.
I own two trailers. A 7k# flat bed and 12k# dump trailer. The flat bed I use light electric with a setting of about 3-4 when empty and 5-7 when loaded. It will lock the tires if I set it too high, even under light electric. For my 12k# use use heavy electric at a setting of about 3-4 when empty and about 7-8 when fully loaded. Any higher and it too will lock the tires. Pulled many other trailers with similar results. Only one trailer didn't work well. Turns out the trailers brakes where so far out of adjustment that you could send straight current back to the brakes and the pads barely touched the drums. The man adjusted the brakes and bingo, no problem.
If the truck controls the IBC differently at different speeds, maybe its an idea to let the after market programmer guys know about this and se if there is a way a tuner could trick the IBC into thinking the truck is always at 30+mph? I know this wouldn't help the guys that don't have tuners but if Ram won't fix it maybe they could?
That being asked, I have no issues with mine, but I do tow a smaller trailer, only about 7k pounds max. I don't remember the setting off hand as I am at work. I do know its not maxed out, and it will lock the brakes if I set it high enough.
I think if we wanted to fool the unit about speed we'd have fake one of the inputs. Might just need a 12v feed with a resistor. The hard part is getting General to give up a schematic.
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