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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Torque specs?

I know that this may be out there somewhere but couldn't sem to find a master list anywhere. Does anybody have a torque spec master list? Head studs, exhaust manifold studs, wheel bearing, tie rods , etc
Thanks guys


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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 08:28 PM
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Have you looked through these links?
Quick FYI sticky for service specs .

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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 08:35 PM
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Head STUDS or bolts? And the manifold uses bolts as well...

So if you have a 5.9L ISB, here's the Head Bolt Specs:

EQUAL Length head bolts, 5.9L & 6.7L engine, torque ALL as follows:

Step 1. Torque to 66' lbs (or 90Nm)
Step 2. Torque to 66' lbs (or 90Nm)
Step 3. Torque to 90* (90 Degrees and STOP)

Specs for 5.9L with UNEQUAL Length Head Bolts:

Step 1. ALL Bolts torque to 26'lbs (or 35Nm)
Step 2. INBOARD LONG bolts 41'lbs (or 55Nm) ***There are 12 SHORT (130mm) that are OUTBOARD.
Step 3. Torque ALL bolts 90* (90 Degrees)
Step 4. Torque ALL bolts 90* (90 Degrees) again then STOP

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Last edited by Ram_Wagon; 09-19-2012 at 08:42 PM. Reason: spell/highlight
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 08:41 PM
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Oh crap...

I forgot about that STICKY!!!

But Exhaust Manifold:

Torque ALL engines (Except 6.7L CM850 engines)

32'lbs (or 43Nm)

***To aid manifold alignment, 2 capscrew holes in manifold are SMALLER, and bolts should be started there FIRST. Varies on hole location from engine to engine, but the casting is drilled with 2 smaller bolt holes.

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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 08:44 PM
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Can get anyone ANY spec, but will need to know specifically WHAT spec and Engine Serial Number helps...

I used my ESN for these specs, but alot of the 6.7L specs are shared because they are ALL ISB's to Cummins, regardless of displacement.

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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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So I'm guessing the tq wrench I picked up that's 50-150 ft lbs is too big? Need to get a 3/8 drive with smaller settings on it?
As far as the exhaust manifold studs I was talking bout the kit from genos I know stock is bOlts. I was thinking about installing my own head studs hence the request for those specs

2003 QCSB 5 speed SDD3250-Fast Coolers-BMS 50s-6.7 feed tubes-CPP 115# springs-7/16" Manton pushrods-ARP studs-5" st8 Twin 7" CATs-ISSPRO's-Smarty S06-2nd gen manifold-He351- 2nd gen Intake Horn-Jacobs Brake-NUC Oil Bypass-Traction Bars
-Soon to be for sale and looking for a 4th gen -
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Double post

2003 QCSB 5 speed SDD3250-Fast Coolers-BMS 50s-6.7 feed tubes-CPP 115# springs-7/16" Manton pushrods-ARP studs-5" st8 Twin 7" CATs-ISSPRO's-Smarty S06-2nd gen manifold-He351- 2nd gen Intake Horn-Jacobs Brake-NUC Oil Bypass-Traction Bars
-Soon to be for sale and looking for a 4th gen -
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:07 PM
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If the studs torque to factory specs, then yeah... you can use those. As for torque wrench, you'll need a lower one, but WILL need a long handle ratchet or breaker bar to do the 90's. I can't remember off top of my head what 60plus foot lbs PLUS 90* will equate to in Total Foot Lbs? But I do think it's over 150'lbs.

My torque 1/2" drive wrench goes from 12.5 to 250'lbs, but I've never used it to turn the 90 degrees. I use a 3 foot 1/2"drive ratchet for those.

You should be able to torque everything with 3/8" drive initially on head AND manifold. (Manifold can be torqued with 3/8" easily) But head studs, that's gonna take a little leverage.

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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:09 PM
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To say again, the 1/2" drive won't really help, since you will "overstretch it" using it to pull 90's on final torque, even IF you set it to 150'lbs. And it won't give you accurate lower torques.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:13 PM
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Also, anytime I know I'm going to torque head bolts, I paint a line across the top of the bolt head AFTER initial torques and BEFORE the 90* turns. That way, as I go thru the sequence from center spiraling outward, I know which have been turned, and which haven't.

Just paint a line across top from front to rear on ALL the bolts you've torqued. Then, when you're done with all the 90's, you'll see all the lines going "across" the engine.

(Just in case someone that's never done this wants to know...)

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post #11 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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Yea I wish the wrench had a wider range on it. Guess I'll go back tomorrow an get the 3/8 drive one

2003 QCSB 5 speed SDD3250-Fast Coolers-BMS 50s-6.7 feed tubes-CPP 115# springs-7/16" Manton pushrods-ARP studs-5" st8 Twin 7" CATs-ISSPRO's-Smarty S06-2nd gen manifold-He351- 2nd gen Intake Horn-Jacobs Brake-NUC Oil Bypass-Traction Bars
-Soon to be for sale and looking for a 4th gen -
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post #12 of 18 (permalink) Old 09-19-2012, 10:37 PM
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Actually, I was wrong about a GOOD torque wrench. If you REALLY use one regularly, buy a Snap-On "TechAngle" torque wrench... Part Number ATECH3FR250. I said I've never used mine on the 90* but I forgot. I have used it! It can be set for initial torque, then switched to next torque AND you can set angle on it to "go off" when you reach specified torque AND angle values. It beeps and vibrates.

However, it's NOT cheap. (got mine ON Sale for about $350) So if you only buy a torque wrench to use once a year, not worth it. Otherwise, you want a wrench to do EVRYTHING you'll ever ask, then buy that one! As I said, it's range is from 12.5'lbs to 250'lbs, with Newton meter settings from 16.9Nm to 338.9Nm AND inch lbs, from 150"lbs to 3000"lbs. Does angles from 5* to 360* so it IS a must if you use a torque wrench at least once a week.

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