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Old 05-13-2011, 11:23 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I am certain about everything but the odometer and skim is caused by that one wire not getting power from the key. the anti-lock brake controller is not getting power and it MAY provide the trigger for the instrument cluster. (it does "talk" to it on the data link)

change the ignition switch and we will see what happens.


the Modulite works with 2 or 3 wire, that the type of turn signals. (we have 3 wire)
the Modulite just isolates your trailer lights from the truck, it doesn't touch the electric brakes, 12 v or backup lamps.
On 03's the trailer lights go thru built in relay controllers located in the FCM (page 1028) and when you have a short, the controller gets cooked. so you either have no trailer lights or spend big $ getting a new FCM. the modulite will let you make a mistake and get away with it.
get the Modulite 119190 plus the wiring kit 118151 so you have the wiring harness. also do a search on some of these forms, there is a real good write up on the install.

Joe
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Last edited by sr4440; 05-13-2011 at 11:43 AM.
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Old 05-13-2011, 11:46 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I installed a new ignition switch. Still the same problem.

The old switch shows discoloration and signs of heat on the terminal of the incoming Green wire.

I pulled the plug off the back of the new switch when the problem wasnít resolved, and checked the Orange wire with an ohm meter. The wire is grounded.

Ron
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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pull fuses 35, 36,37,38 and 52 then check to see if it grounded. they all get power from the solid orange wire.

was that the green wire or the black/green wire?

do you have power on the black/orange wire? it should be hot all the time

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Last edited by sr4440; 05-13-2011 at 12:13 PM.
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:29 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I think most all the fuses are grounded. I donít know how the truck could even run.

I donít know if this makes any difference, but the batteries are disconnected, and the connection to the ignition switch is pulled off.

The discoloration is the solid green wire in the corner.

I didnít check the black/orange wire for power, I was afraid to connect the negative battery cables because of the air bags.
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:36 PM   #17 (permalink)
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the wires are going to show grounded as they go to the lights and modules.
you don't have to connect the battery if you have some long leads on your ohm meter. just do a ohm check from the + post. (i wrote this a few mins ago, where i say "power" insert ohm meter)

Ok we are on page 747, Fuses 4, 9, 10, 3 and 20 are good.
Then we should check at the switch and find power on the pink/black wire, both red/white wires, the black/orange wire and the red wire. If that checks out good, then putting the switch back together and placing the key in the “run” position. We now should have power at all fuse positions. (35-38 and 52)
If we still do not have power then it’s time to look at the connectors. Connector “C5” on the IPM (bottom of fuse box) (page 724)

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Last edited by sr4440; 05-13-2011 at 12:39 PM.
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Old 05-13-2011, 12:41 PM   #18 (permalink)
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When I say every fuse is grounded, I mean every fuse in the panel.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:01 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Pink/black good has power
2 Red/white good, has power
Red wire, good has power

Black/orange wire No power.
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Old 05-13-2011, 01:35 PM   #20 (permalink)
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black/orange is supposed to be hot all the time and it provides power to our orange ignition wire when the key is in the run position. (this is the problem!)

the power for that wire comes from fuse 3 (page 747) and then out thru connector "C2"(bottom of fuse box) (page 724) pin 10 (page 1137) then to the ignition switch connector. it is black/orange the whole time.

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Old 05-13-2011, 01:54 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I fixed it. The 30amp fuse from #3, had been stuck in the spare #2 slot.

I am not sure when it happened, there were so many people trying to work on it. But I am pretty sure the ignition switch was fried.

I am so thankful to you for all your help.

You get a gold star, and I get the dumb award
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Woo-hoo!!
lol, we have all done it! I once pulled the inside of a trailer completely apart chasing a wire, because i didn't think i would have 4 blown lights at the same time.

so it is completely fixed including the key and odometer?

if you want to see if the switch is bad, hook a ohm meter to pin 7 and 14, (page 1134) the move the "key" to run. it should show "closed"

Joe
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Old 05-13-2011, 02:17 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Just like it never even happened.

Thanks again, I will check the switch later, I am calling it a day.
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Old 05-22-2011, 11:51 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I'm not trying to steal your tread, but since you got your problem resolved, I have one of my own maybe someone can help me with.. It's been a problem for a while.. My odometer,"high beam" indicator, turn signal indicators etc. Haven't worked for a while.. When it first stopped working it would come on every now and then and now it don't at all? The odometer still works but I can't see it.. Any help or advice at all
Is appreciated


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