Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Mesa & NW, AZ
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My truck just had similar symptoms on Thursday. After dying on my girlfriend and a ride on a tow truck to my work, I started looking around. There WAS fuel in the filter reservoir, I did get it to start again briefly, then it died again. Had to get back to my job, which pays for my ride, so it sat until I could get to it, which was last night. I performed the following in the parking lot at my work, most of it at night, which is why I don't have pictures. Start to finish, including accurate diagnosis, parts run, getting tools together, a few phone calls to my buddy at his shop, Big D Truck and Auto in Mesa AZ for the technical information and were to get the parts, was right at 2 hours. First thing I did, was use a low budget scanner from AutoZone to capture the code the computer had set. It was: P0628, which basically means a problem with the lift pump "or" the lift pump wiring circuit "or" the ECM. This is why I believe a accurate diagnosis is critical. The stock lift pump on our 03-04 trucks has 2 wires to it, black-white stripe & black-orange stripe. Unplug this from the lift pump. For this part of the diagnosis I used a "nothin fancy" 12v test light and my girlfriend to work the key as I needed. I tested the black-white stripe wire first. It is the ground for the lift pump. This wire just goes to a chassis ground, nothing fancy, but something important to check. Hook up your test light reverse from normal operation to check the ground circuit. Put the clip at the end of the wire of the test light on the positive post of the battery. Now probe the black-white stripe wire. If the light comes on nice and bright, ground circuit is good. If not, you need to repair the ground circuit before proceeding. Only thing I can give you on this would be to follow the harness, looking for a broken wire, bad harness connector or possibly bad ground connection at presumably the frame. Mine lit nice and bright. Also, this procedure will work for checking any ground circuit. Next I checked the power circuit. The stock lift pump gets its power from the ECM. Hence why it is so important to get an accurate diagnosis. This were the helper comes in. You will need to probe the black-orange wire, AFTER, you reconnect the test light, clip at end of wire to a good ground and also make sure you are CLEAR of the engine fan and belts. As soon as your helper turns the key on, the test light should come on nice and bright, it may go off shortly, which is ok, but you need to have that initial light. You can also have your helper turn the key just into the start position, and the test light should come on as well. If it does not light, the problem is with the ECM. That can get expensive fast. Mine lit as soon as she turned the key to the on position. OK, so you have performed the above test's, and all has passed, now what. Your lift pump is bad. Do NOT let ANYONE tell you, as my local Cummins dealer tried to, the so called update from the Dodge dealer, is the only thing you can do. I know a couple of vendors on here carry the direct replacement pump, which takes time to order, which I did not have, or you can go to your local NAPA and ask for "part # P76110". Even at full list, which you shouldn't have to pay, it is still half the cost of the update kit and a whole lot less work. I was in the $150.00 range for mine. It is made by Carter, so no cheep junk there. As far as life span of this design, as far as I can tell mine was original. I am fixing to turn 230,000 miles this weekend. Tools needed to replace it are: 5mm allen wrench or allen socket, I used a 5mm allen socket 1/4 drive, a 3/8 fuel line quick disconnect tool. I first removed the fuel line which runs from the pump to the hard line, with the 3/8 quick disconnect tool. Then, it should be already be disconnected, move the wire harness plug for the lift pump out of the way. Then while standing on your head and moving your self into positions you didn't think possible, using the 5mm allen tool you've chosen, unbolt the old lift pump from the back side of the filter housing. Remove the pump and soft line as one from your truck. The new pump will come with a new soft line that you assemble onto the pump, follow the directions that come with it. The new lift pump kit will come with spring clamps for the new soft hose, you can use as did I, or you can go get the better worm gear clamps. I just double clamped mine. Use the new o-ring supplied in the kit for where the pump nipple goes into the filter canister,as well as use sparingly the assembly lube on the o-ring. After making sure the old o-ring is removed. Install the new lift pump onto the back of the fuel canister using "blue" Locktite on the bolts and tighten. They do not need to be cranked on, just tightened. Reconnect the wiring harness as well. Attached the assembled soft line with the new quick disconnect fitting onto the hard line. It is also a good idea to change the fuel filter at this time as well. Slowly cycle the key a couple of times to get the pump to "prime" every thing up. Then you should be good to start. Final step I did was to clear the codes the computer had set. Now it works great. Hopefully this helps someone out. Any further questions, feel free to pm me, I'll help as much as I can.
PS: Administrator, if this is posted in the wrong spot, sorry, feel free to move.
, DPS Compounds 62/65/12-S475, CX Racing inter cooler, Crazy Larry, 45% extrude hone nozzles, FASS 150, CTS, 4" "quiet" exhaust, Reworked 48RE, Billet Triple Disk.......and more stuff not worth listing