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07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING
iam over 100,000k now had the h&s xrt since 20,000 always on 175hp with att turbo tuning.always drive with my exaust brake on & tow a 12000lb boat all summer have never had a issue.
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07.5 -6.7 mega cab-s&b intake-35x12.5x17cooper stt-mamba m1 wheels,ATS COPILOT, CARLI 2.0 BACKCOUNTRY-EFI LIVE with 4inch tbe & full egr delete,gdp megaflow intake horn,airboss 67gridheat delete,articheat high flow 3.5 gridheater,mk 11 & bigline kit
This is what I've found on my own truck. Bought new in 2008 and stayed 100% stock for 10,000 miles. At that point, did the deletes (including blocking coolant line at the head, H&S kit) and ran a Smarty for about 20,000 miles. I always let the truck warm up and t-stat open before beating on it. I also tried to not get too aggressive with the timing with the stock turbo on the truck.
For the last 10,000 miles my truck has been setup with an aftermarket turbo, head studs, etc. I've followed the same rules and haven't had an issue with the headgasket at 60 PSI and a good amount of WOT runs.
From what I see day to day in the shop, nearly every 6.7 HG we fix is a tuned truck with the stock turbo. Some have headstuds, others OEM bolts. My personal opinion is that it has to do with the stock VGT. That's not to say someone making 800hp and custom tuning their truck will never blow a HG. But personal experience has shown me regardless of what brand tuner they have, whether they tow or race or daily drive, the common factor is the stock turbo.
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Current - 08 GMC Sierra LMM, EFI-Live DSP5 by DuramaxTuner, Flo-Pro, ADP transmission lines, 20x9 Moto Metal 962's, Nitto 420's, 3" Belltech drop shackles, So much more to do . . .
Former - 08 6.7, some fuel, some air and a 47RE swap.
This is what I've found on my own truck. Bought new in 2008 and stayed 100% stock for 10,000 miles. At that point, did the deletes (including blocking coolant line at the head, H&S kit) and ran a Smarty for about 20,000 miles. I always let the truck warm up and t-stat open before beating on it. I also tried to not get too aggressive with the timing with the stock turbo on the truck.
For the last 10,000 miles my truck has been setup with an aftermarket turbo, head studs, etc. I've followed the same rules and haven't had an issue with the headgasket at 60 PSI and a good amount of WOT runs.
From what I see day to day in the shop, nearly every 6.7 HG we fix is a tuned truck with the stock turbo. Some have headstuds, others OEM bolts. My personal opinion is that it has to do with the stock VGT. That's not to say someone making 800hp and custom tuning their truck will never blow a HG. But personal experience has shown me regardless of what brand tuner they have, whether they tow or race or daily drive, the common factor is the stock turbo.
What Turbo can we get that wont break the bank?
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2012 Black Crew Cab Dually Big Horn Max Tow 4x4, 100% Bone Stock!! other than PopUp Goose and RideRite Bags! 7.6 HC'd MPG towing heavy
There's tons of choices out there. The biggest thing is you lose the exhaust brake when you go to an aftermarket fixed geometry turbo. That tends to be the deciding factor when deciding to ditch the VGT or stick with it.
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Current - 08 GMC Sierra LMM, EFI-Live DSP5 by DuramaxTuner, Flo-Pro, ADP transmission lines, 20x9 Moto Metal 962's, Nitto 420's, 3" Belltech drop shackles, So much more to do . . .
Former - 08 6.7, some fuel, some air and a 47RE swap.
The Following User Says Thank You to patrickATSDiesel For This Useful Post:
There's tons of choices out there. The biggest thing is you lose the exhaust brake when you go to an aftermarket fixed geometry turbo. That tends to be the deciding factor when deciding to ditch the VGT or stick with it.
Damn, yeah that decides it for me
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2012 Black Crew Cab Dually Big Horn Max Tow 4x4, 100% Bone Stock!! other than PopUp Goose and RideRite Bags! 7.6 HC'd MPG towing heavy
Here's a stupid idea, t-stats sticking closed (or open) from crud right after doing the delete couldn't cause the head to over heat could it? I noticed mine sticking after the deletes, then bits of rubber in the overflow. (could be bits of gasket too, who knows)
I did the plug in the block, but a reroute would give alternate flow wouldn't it?
(not trying to hijack this thread, there's some experts here though)
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Ford for work, Dodge for everything else!
2007.5 3500 Mega Cab Dually, H&S Tuner & deletes,XX-Fuel, DSS, no CCV filter, PCV blocked&dropped, FireStones sand balanced Blaupunkt Navi n' camera soon.
I can't see sig's with tapatalk, but this thread sure reads like most people are using the same manufacture tuner...
(who knows though, I could have missed some posts...)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
if you are pointing at h&s i dont think thats the issue,if guys are having failing head gaskets with head studs & mild tunes there is something else going on.
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07.5 -6.7 mega cab-s&b intake-35x12.5x17cooper stt-mamba m1 wheels,ATS COPILOT, CARLI 2.0 BACKCOUNTRY-EFI LIVE with 4inch tbe & full egr delete,gdp megaflow intake horn,airboss 67gridheat delete,articheat high flow 3.5 gridheater,mk 11 & bigline kit
Are there completely stock non deleted trucks with HG issues as well? Just curious.
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2012 Black Crew Cab Dually Big Horn Max Tow 4x4, 100% Bone Stock!! other than PopUp Goose and RideRite Bags! 7.6 HC'd MPG towing heavy
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