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How to remove front wheel hub/bearing.

40K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  dieseljay74 
#1 ·
I am in the process of replacing my front driverside axle u joint. the problem is i cant get the hub off to slide the axle out i removed the axle nut caliper rotor and the 4 bolts holding the hub from the backside and cant get it off i tried using a 10inch puller heated the knuckle with 2 torches at the same time. any help or hints woutld be great please any thing at all
 
#2 ·
On my 03 2500 the front wheel bearing was pressed in, I had to use a cold chisel and 2 lb sledge to break it loose from the axle housing.......it's been 4 years ago so I can't remember everything I had to do, but I do remember it was a bit*h to get off!:shock:
 
#4 ·
Once you have the wheel off and brake caliper (and if a dually, the hub extension), there are 4 bolts on the back holding it all together.

Remove the main axle nut first (much easier with truck locked in 4x4 low) is 1 11/16, remove it then the 4 bolts on the back. As as did that on my dually truck the bloody hub feel off ! No effort at all ..... Otherwise use a threaded hub puller and large ratchet and I will come off slowly and easy.

Should look like this:


If a dually, then like this:


Hope that helps.
 
#5 ·
What does a hub puller look like??
 
#6 ·
On really hard ones, I'll put the rotor on backwards and secure it to the hub with four of the lug nuts. Then find a 2x4" that will fit between the rotor and frame with the wheels facing forward. Then, while someone holds the 2x4", I'd start the truck and turn the wheel slowly. Push on the rotor in the front, then in the back, to rock it out.
 
#7 ·
this works well if you have 2 people. Take the big nut off like said above, then use the 4 bolts that go into the bearing by backing them half way out. You will use just a socket on 2 of them and a socket with an extension on the other 2. Have someone get in the truck and start it and they will turn the wheel and it will push the bearing out. You will have to keep switching bolts and backing bolts out but eventually it will come out. Basically the socket or extension will butt up against the axle and the steering of the truck will push it out. I would suggest putting a ton of liquid wrench on it to and use never sieze when reinstalling.
 
#8 ·
Puller?

Try taking the 4 bolts holding the bearing housing out 1/4" at a time and using a deep socket behind to "Push" it off turning your steering wheel back and forth. 2 people needed, one turning the wheel while engine is running, one moving the socket back and forth from side to side -watch your fingers! There is a post somewhere in here on balljoint replacement with pictures and a better description.
 
#11 ·
thanks for all the input. The only solution i can think of is hit it a lot harder i had used the puller,with a impact maxed out while the puller was at full strength and hitting it with a 4lb sludge on the hub and nothing. I have removed all the bolts on the back and the axle nut and a full can of pb blaster and nothing its really seized. also the air chissel while the puller was maxed out and nothing at all
 
#12 ·
Do the power steering method as posted above. Here in MI it is about the only way to get them off because of the winter weather and road salt. Alto of times you wiull seperate the unit bearing when using a puller and you will now have to add that to your list of replacement parts. And don't forget to antisieze everything before assembly.:thumbsup:
 
#13 ·
I was told the method of using the steering to do it by a 20 yr Chrysler tech. If you heat it up or beat on it or use a puller you have a good chance of damaging the bearing. Idk if you need one but if not it doesnt make sense to ruin it because they arent cheap. I live in Indiana and like MI we use alot of salt and liquid de icer. I replaced one in my truck when it was 3 years old and only had 75k and didnt think id ever get it out til I was shown that method.
 
#14 ·
I've been playing with these things for years and have always been beat up by these bearings but have never lost the fight! That steering trick has got to be the best idea i have ever heard, thank you for sharing that trick this will make the next axle u joint change a little easier since they dont seem to last much more then 40000 miles:doh:Thanks again Trevor
 
#15 ·
wow am I glad I took mine to a shop....local guy charged me 100/ side including parts....seeing how the ujoint listed here for ~50....seemed reasonable to me!
 
#18 ·
loool prolly! same thing when I had to "upgrade" to the new steering linkage design... fought for 3-4 hours trying to get pitman arm off. wouldnt budge. took it to the same guy and did it for $50. weeeeeeeeeeeee!
 
#19 ·
I just did mine. Had a friend turn the wheel while wedging a steel sledge hammer between the knuckle and hub . While he kept pressure on it I whacked it with another sledge and it moved like a 1/16 of an inch away. Turned the other way and repeated. They usually don't fall off after the first whack...you have to keep switching until it moves away enough to get a prybar in there to crank it off. And it usually only moves a hair at a time...just have to look closely.
 
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