P0700-transmission Control System (mil Request) - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 07.5 - 09 6.7 Liter Cummins > 07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Powertrain
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING

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Old 09-07-2010, 12:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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P0700-transmission Control System (mil Request)

I dont drive my truck for weeks at a time sometimes.. I work out of my 12v...

Wife and I were loading up for a trip Friday and the batteries were dead on the truck..... Okay not a big deal... Jumped it off with the 12v....

Truck had a CEL.... And when shifing into drive it was stuck in 4th.. Checked codes w Smarty and attempted to clear....
P0700-transmission Control System (mil Request)

Code will not clear and CEL stays on... Overhead says system ok..... Truck went into gear fine after that..

SOOOOOOO... I thought it was the TCM needing to relearn since the batteries were dead.....

Drove the truck from Houston to Jasper and back with a light load (atv)...

CEL is still on, and code still wont clear... Truck drives...

Any insight would be great....



I still dont think the truck is shifting like it used to....
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Last edited by nike; 09-07-2010 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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68rfe???? If so check all sensors and if that doesn't do it have the dealer diagnose it and give you the details about the code specifics found on starscan.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:13 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Think your trannys od gears are shot and 4th is limp mode in the 68.
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Old 09-07-2010, 01:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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yes 68rfe....

Tranny is shifting through all gears and seems to shift fine under normal acceleration.

Only under WOT did I notice that it seemed to shift slower than normal..

This is on sw3......

Truck was running and shifting fine before the batteries went dead... This problem only arose after the batteries were too low to start the truck.. Batteries were not completely dead.
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Last edited by nike; 09-07-2010 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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P0700 is a flag that sets in the engine controller (ECM) to alert techs that there is a fault set in the trans controller (TCM). You need to read the code from the TCM (which your dealer can do with their scan tool). That will nail down what's going on.

P0700 was implemented years ago to avoid techs seeing the CEL on (due to a trans fault), checking the engine controller (and finding no faults), and then never thinking to check the TCM for faults.

If your truck drives OK now, could be the low battery voltage caused a fault (in the TCM) that simply hasn't been cleared, so the CEL remains on. If everything is OK, the CEL should clear itself after something like 40 trips. Or you could just have your dealer check the code and clear it.
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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TransEngineer,

Thank you so much for your insight into my issue... I need to get the truck into my dealer before my extended warranty is up (runs out @ 68K) as my tranny has what seems to be a slow leak around the pan.....

I will try and get the wife to take the truck in this week since I will be out of town... I will report back the findings...

Thanks again..
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Old 09-07-2010, 03:27 PM   #7 (permalink)
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... my tranny has what seems to be a slow leak around the pan...
Nike,

What area of your pan is leaking? Front? Back? Driver's side? And are you sure the leak is from the pan joint itself, and not from somewhere higher up on the trans?

If the leak is on the driver's side, rear half, then check the seal on the shifter shaft to see whether it's walked out of its bore in the case. This is a common problem on 68RFEs. If that's it, let me know and I can give you some more info...
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Old 09-07-2010, 05:16 PM   #8 (permalink)
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TE,

I'm not 100% sure on the location of the leak and I don't want to give false information. I'm currently traveling home and will check to find the source immediately upon arrival. I will post my findings this evening.
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Old 09-07-2010, 07:38 PM   #9 (permalink)
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TE,

You are correct sir. The leak seems to be coming from the rubber seal on the shifter shaft... It was pushed all the way out against the shaft.. I didnt push it completely back in since there seems to be dirt behind....

Can I just push this seal back in? Seems like it would walk itself right back out??

Thanks
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The leak seems to be coming from the rubber seal on the shifter shaft... It was pushed all the way out against the shaft.. I didnt push it completely back in since there seems to be dirt behind....

Can I just push this seal back in? Seems like it would walk itself right back out??
The seal should be a press fit into the bore. If it is loose in the bore, then you should get a new seal. Mopar part number is 04799346 and the price is $2.70 list.

Actually, it should be difficult to push the seal into the bore. That was our problem in production. The 68RFE case machining line uses a diamond tool to cut the manual lever shaft (shifter shaft) seal bore, giving it an almost mirror-like finish. Turns out this finish is TOO smooth, making it harder than usual to press in the seal. Our seal installation equipment used a fixed amount of force, but that was not always enough to get the seal fully seated.

For BEST results, you'd want to slightly roughen up the seal bore surface before installing a new (or the same old) seal. That can be tricky, because you DON'T want to damage the smooth finish on the shaft (that the seal lip rubs against). I've never tried this personally, but a short length of 3/4" copper pipe (water pipe) should fit over the shifter shaft, but still inside the seal bore. You could get a short piece of pipe, put a few wraps of a fine sandpaper strip around the outside (to get it up to seal bore size), and then turn that gently around inside the seal bore to roughen it. You don't really want to remove any material, only change the finish from shiny to a matte finish. That should make it easier to install the new seal, and keep it in the bore better, too. Good luck!
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:08 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Sorry I havent updated the thread.. Have been out of town and just returned home. I'll head to the local dealer and pick up a new seal.. I also have the copper and fine sandpaper necessary to clean the mating surface up a little....

Thanks for the help again, Ill post up if I have any issues..
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