Head Gasket or Boiling Coolant? Need advice - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING

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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Head Gasket or Boiling Coolant? Need advice

I'm getting paranoid....
https://youtu.be/aZbS7rQm2VU

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-16-2017, 10:16 AM
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Hello
normal this is the head gasket, i had the exact same problem month before and changed the head gasket last Wekend, and also put arp studs in the head
when i had the head removed i can see a tiny spot where the exhoust gases leak into the coolant passages,

now i had no problems more

did the upper radiator hose are solid when your engin is operating temperure?, mine is now never solid/hard
also not when its about 180-190

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Update: Did a compression test on all 6 cylinders last night, Cylinder 5 seemed to be the problem child. all other cylinders were above 400 (Which is max on my tester) and cylinder 5 was at ~345 PSI.

No blow by at any temperature, just a slow bubble into the overflow bottle and coolant hose is pressurized. I am now sure i have a HG leak.

I took it to my local shop, I am getting a Mahle gasket set and ARP 425 head studs. shop quote is a little over $2500 (US) for some reason the quote doesn't include resufacing the head. so it will be higher. Likely $500 higher. Thanks all.

2007.5 DODGE RAM 3500 QCDRW - 6.7L CUMMINS FULL DELETE - H&S INTAKE HORN - STAGE II AFE COLD AIR INTAKE - FASS TITANIUM 95GPH - BEANS DIESEL SUMP - STRAIGHT PIPED - G56 6 SPEED TRANS - RANCH HAND BUMPER

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Fanman43 View Post
Update: Did a compression test on all 6 cylinders last night, Cylinder 5 seemed to be the problem child. all other cylinders were above 400 (Which is max on my tester) and cylinder 5 was at ~345 PSI.

No blow by at any temperature, just a slow bubble into the overflow bottle and coolant hose is pressurized. I am now sure i have a HG leak.

I took it to my local shop, I am getting a Mahle gasket set and ARP 425 head studs. shop quote is a little over $2500 (US) for some reason the quote doesn't include resufacing the head. so it will be higher. Likely $500 higher. Thanks all.
Fanman43, please consider installing the Fleece Coolant Bypass to eliminate future issues on Cyl 4,5,6.. this will give you a much better temp distribution on cooling.

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jakeorders View Post
Fanman43, please consider installing the Fleece Coolant Bypass to eliminate future issues on Cyl 4,5,6.. this will give you a much better temp distribution on cooling.
This one correct?
Cummins Coolant Bypass Kit Fleece Performance Engineering, Inc.: Innovating Diesel Performance

How does this help? Ive seen this before but, I'm unsure as to how this really works. Could you elaborate?

2007.5 DODGE RAM 3500 QCDRW - 6.7L CUMMINS FULL DELETE - H&S INTAKE HORN - STAGE II AFE COLD AIR INTAKE - FASS TITANIUM 95GPH - BEANS DIESEL SUMP - STRAIGHT PIPED - G56 6 SPEED TRANS - RANCH HAND BUMPER

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-20-2017, 07:56 PM Thread Starter
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Btw @jakeorders , That is one good looking truck!

2007.5 DODGE RAM 3500 QCDRW - 6.7L CUMMINS FULL DELETE - H&S INTAKE HORN - STAGE II AFE COLD AIR INTAKE - FASS TITANIUM 95GPH - BEANS DIESEL SUMP - STRAIGHT PIPED - G56 6 SPEED TRANS - RANCH HAND BUMPER

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 01:38 AM
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How does this help? Ive seen this before but, I'm unsure as to how this really works. Could you elaborate?

how does it help? well, the simple answer is it doesn't really. the point of a coolant bypass is to relieve pressure building up in the coolant passages in the back of the head to avoid blowing out the gigantic freeze plug back there, thus barfing coolant all over your transmission where it definitely doesn't help at all. it also allows hotter coolant to circulate out of the back of the head more easily rather than having to fight with other coolant paths to get back into the main stream of flow. it's very useful for high-horsepower builds where the engine is going to be turning high rpm (above stock redline) frequently, or where the driver puts the truck under extremely high load (heavy towing under hard boost) for long periods of time (EG towing in the mountains at or near max GCWR). the vast majority of us, this is just an extra insurance thing and not really needed.

how does it work? there's a housing which bolts to the superfluous transmission support holes (replaces them) on the back of the block around the aforementioned huge-by-large freeze plug. in this housing resides a 180* thermostat (in the fleece kit) which works exactly like you'd expect a thermostat to work: it starts opening at 180 and is fully open by about 190-195 to allow full time flow out the back of the block and along the passenger side of the head. this dumps into the thermostat housing and reenters the coolant circulation path. the fleece kit comes with the housing, the built-in t-stat, the hose, the t-stat housing spacer, all fittings, and some clamps to hold the line in place. it's a really nice kit. the other option is the motorsports kit, which is basically exactly the same except in place of the thermostat there's a Watts-type pressure valve in the back which opens and allows flow at a given pressure - 35 or 50 psi, depending on what source your're looking at.

how do i know that? because i'm one of those people who recognizes i'll likely never have a need for this thing, but after losing my water pump in spectacularly catastrophic fashion, i bought everything i could think of to mitigate it happening again. so i'm now running the fleece coolant bypass, a sinister coolant filter, a 180* main t-stat, and while i was in there i replaced my upper and lower radiator hoses, the belt, the pump, and the tensioner. because anything worth doing is worth grossly overdoing. i came up having the mantra hammered into my head that if you show up to a gunfight and find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck. therefore, if i expect the truck built (eventually) to ~700 horse (i'm shooting for 670), i want everything capable of handling significantly more than that. i went with the fleece kit because the price is virtually identical and while the motorsports kit provides theoretically better warm-up (or rather less of an obstacle to warming up), i've only once in my life experienced a thermostat failure where one stuck closed. i can't attest to the reliability of the Watts-type pressure valve as i have zero experience with them, so i stuck with what i personally have confidence will work. not saying the motorsports kit is worse or the fleece kit is better, just saying i don't have any leg to stand on from experience with a pressure relief valve like that.

but that's just my two cents. hope it helps.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
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That was a ton of information that I was not expecting to get! I VERY MUCH appreciate it! Thank you!

As for getting it, I think I might in the future. I dont tow all that often - if at all anymore - my truck is not a competitive racer by any means, but I do beat on the poor thing from time to time. Never really anything above 3000 RPM (which is still too high for it.... I'll admit) I currently have a 180* Thermostat. I had to replace the other one because it got stuck open. but it's got the stock charger on it and I'm pretty sure I don't go above 25ish.... I dont have a gauge....

I can agree with your line of thinking though. I can relate to such a mindset.


One thing I have noticed is that it doesnt start to bubble until it's up to temp While it's warming up or just making a short trip to the parts store and back (not even a mile) it either doesnt bubble at all or will send a very slow bubble. After I've driven for more than a mile or two it will bubble but not violently. (Like displayed in my video which was taken after a 60 mile drive)

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 09:26 AM
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The bubbling in your video did not look as violent or aggressive as the bubbling I had. To possibly save you a few thousand, take an oil sample and send it in to confirm if there's any coolant in your oil (like I had).

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by El Pozzinator View Post
..... i'm now running the fleece coolant bypass .....
Not trying to hijack this thread - But I have to know - Assuming the engine was still in the truck - how hard was it to install the Fleece fitting at the back of the block?

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 03:28 PM
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A bit difficult but not impossible. Best advice is take the directions seriously and make sure the truck is cooled down. Completely. Like, cold. Some coolant is going to come out so if i had to do it again I'd try harder to drain a lot more of it. I found a hint to use a bunch of 3/8" extensions to get at the freeze plug to rotate it and it worked once I got it lined up, which was an adventure in and of itself. Woulda been easier with the exhaust off, but I left it in place... never been accused of being the brightest crayon in the box.
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-21-2017, 08:53 PM
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@Fanman43 if you're getting a foot in it pretty regularly, I'd highly recommend you pick up a set of gauges. Lots of folks on here (myself included) are big fans of the edge cts and cts2 because of all the parameters it can monitor via the obd2 port - it's not exactly cheap, but it's impossible to pick up analog gauges to monitor all that stuff for anywhere near that price. Most critical IMHO are boost, EGT, and trans temp. Keep in mind that these are factory sensor probes though, which are known for being acceptable but not what you'd call scientifically precise. Rail pressure can be an indicator of not only injection pump issues but also potential lift pump issues. You'll need a pyro probe to monitor actual EGT as opposed to one of the factory sensors in the exhaust post-turbo. Flopster makes a plug and play harness to keep an eye on drive pressure that plugs in to an expandable accessory harness you can get for the edge, and it's amazingly accurate. High drive pressure is bad for these engines especially on stock head bolts.

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