Cummins Diesel Forum banner

2008 6.7 randomly shuts off while driving

33K views 18 replies 12 participants last post by  andyman 
#1 ·
I have a 2008 dodge 5500 4x4 it is fully deleated the last couple weeks it will randomly shut off while driving and not want to start. If it sits for an hour then it will be fine it happens at half a tank and just below the 1/4 tank mark and everywhere between. the last 2 fuel filters when I changed them where black, the only coad that show up are 3 coats for the trans. I'll try to get a video of the gauges when it happens again. But I can say the water in fuel light comes on (iv drained the hole tank changed the filter), the rpms drop to zero then bounce back like nothing happens. At this point the rpms bounce 5-10 times and it shuts off or it runs fine till I push the gas.i have a mini max tuner it said all the coads are unknown coads, google says they are;

U1401- impossible engine speed signal received
U1402- impossible engine temp signal received
U1424- impossible engineer torque received

Any ideas on the problem
 
#2 ·
check your lift pump in your fuel tank. if your having issues with your fuel filter, perhaps that explains why it's shutting off. if your filter is continuously getting clogged, the pick-up screen on your lift pump or fuel basket is probably clogged. caused by dirty fuel at the pump. had to replace my lift pump for same reason. drop your tank and pull your pump and check it out.
 
#3 ·
The codes are most likely caused by the engine shutting down but failing that the code causes are all listed below:
TIPM CAN BUS DTCS PRESENT
ECM DTCS PRESENT
TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE
 
#4 ·
Those codes are likely an effect, not a cause. The RPM are implausible because the TCM is expecting RPM signals and Torque, but it's not getting it because the engine is shutting down.

What you got is a weird deal and probably not going to be diagnosed over the web. It's likely going to take a pro, But I would look really hard at modules and sensors. It's pretty typical for electronic problems to manifest in just this way. They get hot and quit working. Then when they cool off they start working again.

Next time it happens, use your scanner to check for rpm signal, and cam signal while cranking. Also check pulse width. If that drops to zero then you know it's either an input or a command issue. If there is pulse width of the injectors then you'll know it's an actuator problem of some sort.
 
#5 ·
sorry for the really long delay some how i got locked out. in this time frame the truck has Ben to a freightliner dealer for two weeks, after a $3000 bill i was told the truck was fixed they went over the hole truck from wiring connector to connector and found no problems, finally they decided that was the in tank fuel pump so they replaced it and drove it 60 miles with no problem. when i picked the truck up i dut 15 miled on it and it shut off on me. so i called them Monday and was told to take it somewhere else they think it is the ecm and thy can not test the ecm so they will not work on it any more. i had a local guy test the ecm and he said it looks perfectly fine, so hear i am again with a broke truck and cant do with it and no one will work on it so it sounds like im on my own. any help thanks.
a guy contacted my on youtube with a 2010 doing the same thing looking for help also.

if you have the fix you can call me direct 3022591123.
 
#7 ·
sorry for the really long delay some how i got locked out. in this time frame the truck has Ben to a freightliner dealer for two weeks, after a $3000 bill i was told the truck was fixed they went over the hole truck from wiring connector to connector and found no problems, finally they decided that was the in tank fuel pump so they replaced it and drove it 60 miles with no problem. when i picked the truck up i dut 15 miled on it and it shut off on me. so i called them Monday and was told to take it somewhere else they think it is the ecm and thy can not test the ecm so they will not work on it any more. i had a local guy test the ecm and he said it looks perfectly fine, so hear i am again with a broke truck and cant do with it and no one will work on it so it sounds like im on my own. any help thanks.
a guy contacted my on youtube with a 2010 doing the same thing looking for help also.

if you have the fix you can call me direct 3022591123.
That totally sucks !
The garage take 3 grand out of your pocket, then tells you they cant fix it and to take it elsewhere.
They either need to stand behind the work they started, or give you a refund!!!


FWIW: While your ECM may have "tested" ok, your problem is intermittent, so the test may not show it as being bad.
 
#9 ·
Also, there's no possible way anybody can have the fix without looking at the thing. Unfortunately it just doesn't work that way. Anybody who tells you what the problem is over the net is simply guessing.

Read post four again. I'm still willing to bet it's either a module problem or sensor problem. It's not uncommon for them to do this. But you'll need to verify it first.
 
#10 ·
^^THIS

the normal reply to electronics gremlins here is "check your batteries, battery cables, and grounds". random electronics failures (up to and including engine-shutoff conditions) often - though not always - result from the ECM input voltage fluctuating. but without load testing the cables and grounds (ALL of them), we're just spitballing. there are so many interconnected systems and sensors feeding into those systems that without going thru the entire electrical system from batteries to engine to computers to connectors / sensors and all lines in between (the dash included), the only thing anybody can give you will be a reasonably-educated guess based on our trucks and our personal experience either directly or though what we've read here.

i'd suggest surfing (does anyone even say that anymore?) over to carbonitecummins.com and checking out the 6.7 cummins service manual and 2008 dodge manual. while they're not for a 5500 specifically, a lot of the information will likely translate as i believe (though i'm not certain) most everything of concern in your type of situation should involve the same basic components.

hope this helps, and good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: ronaldhilliman35
#11 ·
right now im looking for suggestions of things to try, when this firs started i spend days on line trying to see if anyone has ran across this and hav not seen anything last night while looking again i did run across a problem cts was having when trucks where returned to stock, but it was with a certain cereal # ecm. on a whim i thought to look at the ecm and found a wite/clear hard liquid had come out of the ecm and dyed on the bottom of the box so today it is back at the shop they are going to drive it all day or till it dies and see what they can find. when it died on the way to the shop last night i did find 2 more systems. the coolant fan runs for about 20 min after it fit(the truck never went over normal temp) and while it is doing its thing the coolant temp doped to zero on the cluster and on the mini max once it was fine again the temp came right back up to normal. the shop that has it now is a local shop that does everything from build stake body trucks to change oil they are pity good with all the outer problems iv had over the last year im hoping they find the problem like they did with the wiring problem i had last summer fast and cheep
 
#12 ·
Laganoa, are you running any programer or tuner?
 
#15 ·
THE PROBLEM IS FIXED!!! the ecm melted down, the glue that keeps the eletric bord from contacting the outer case melted and oozed out. When we did finaly find the problem the truck stopped running all together. It sat for about a week no start no crank. The way we found out was trying to get a code reader to pull the codes while the truck would not start or turn over. The only thing the tuner would say was can not communicate with ecm. So we pulled the ecm off the truck and plugged a buddies in. The truck would start and run like new for about 10 sec then shut off(due to the injectors not being programmed to that ecm).
Because the truck was deleted and tuned the dealer will sell me a new ecm but would not program it because it is deleted. So this set another problem I needed an ecm all ready programmed for my vin! After a week of google searches I found a company in Florida, that will over night Express me a rebuilt ecm programmed to my vin and injectors. This ecm was literally pug nd play no tuning needed. The only thing we did was plug it in and install the mini max back on the truck. For an extra $100 I got a life time warranty with the ecm. All in total the ecm with life time warranty and the shipping cost me $900, the dealer wanted $2000 just for the ECM not including the tuning and crap.
Below is the link to the youtube video of what the truck was doing. I was gonna add the link for the ecm but I can not find the company that I ordered ur from.
This problem happened around 200000 miles truck now has 380000 miles and runs like a champ!!

Youtube....

https://youtu.be/_Z7uApXCE84

https://youtu.be/I5PT-YQz9kg
 
#19 ·
This should be stickied but the CM2100 ECM's have a design flaw in them where vibration , etc will cause the ECM to fail over time. The solution is part number 5258003 which is the 2009 ECM before they were replaced in 2010 with a newer version. Avoid those ECM repair places. They will not sell you a 5258003 and when you receive it you will be disappointed. I purchased one with "warranty" and it failed in 3 days. Heres the deal if you read the fine print. Life time warranty for extra $100 entitles you to 1 replacement. What good is that replacement if it only last a few days or weeks.

Anyway the key is find yourself a 5258003 and always have an extra in the truck just in case. If you can't find a 5258003, then atleast have 2 of these at all time. The next best thing to this part number is 4980611. Basically as close to 2009 as possible. Your best bet is junkyard or people who are selling this on ebay (not companies).
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top