Cummins Diesel Forum banner

Head Gasket and Head Stud Install

8K views 18 replies 13 participants last post by  Flopster843 
#1 · (Edited)
Head gasket started leaking in the truck so I ended up surfacing the head and installing a new gasket with ARP 2000 studs. The how-to is complete with lots of pics and is currently on CarboniteCummins.com. Hope it helps you guys out some.

http://www.carbonitecummins.com

 
See less See more
1
#5 ·
Glad you all like it. I think this one is going to be in the next issue of TDR magazine. I've just replaced all the doors in my HVAC box and I'm working on getting it all together right now and I'll hopefully have it up in a week or so. I tried to video document that one, so we'll see how that goes when I get it all pieced together.
 
#10 ·
Gasket kit + studs + machine work on the head. So currently that's $370 + about $450 + about $500 depending on the amount of work = $1320 ish. A full day to tear it apart, 3-4 days at a machine shop, and a full day to put it back together. Then a re-torque (not required but I did it anyway) after about a week of driving.

The major parts between the two are nearly identical. 6.7 has the emission stuff unless it's already gone, slightly different coolant routing, slightly different fuel rail setup, and various different electrical connectors.
 
#11 ·
Thank you very much for taking the time to do the head gasket replacement write up. I am about to do mine and this will save some time knowing the order of things to do.
 
#12 ·
i also must say thank you for the write up

i also had must replace the head gasked on my 07 in austria
i live here,

this write up helps me a lot i spend 1600€ for this becouse of the shipping cost and aditional parts( coolant bypass and other things)
this write up save me about 1500-2000€ what our dealer whould take for the work

thank you very much

is carbonite cummins you site and your business?

thanks kevin
 
#13 ·
I have a question: I have to do the same thing to my 6.7, but i've been advised by my usual shop that the best method of doing head studs is to pull the engine because torquing them while in the engine bay (Specifically ones under the cowl closest to the firewall) is inaccurate due to not being able to apply torque correctly. What would be considered the better method?

I am no mechanic but I feel as though it is a bit over the top. Personally, I dont see anything wrong with installing head studs while the head is still on. (obviously I need to pull the head to do the HG, so it will not be done that way)
 
#14 ·
Utter nonsense. Gillette Diesel did my head gasket + studs and there was no engine removal. You can picnic under the hood of these 6.7's, so why would your shop tell you such a thing?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fanman43
#15 ·
That is just what Darren at Rush Diesel said. I told him that I would prefer him not to for the same reason I don't believe it. I trust his shop and trust him but was a little... Confused when he said it. But it made me curious to see if there was any truth to it.
 
#16 ·
WOW that's crazy. I would think twice about trusting that shop again.

While I'm sure it's easier to torque head studs while the motor is out, it is completely not necessary. I did my head studs in the garage, while sitting on the radiator. It was a lower back killer but it was easy. Have also done 2 other trucks complete head gaskets and head studs in the truck. No complaints.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fanman43
#17 ·
The shop that removed the 2007.5 truck (in signature) head, replaced the head gasket and installed 625s (90K+ ago & still holding) did it without removing the engine.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fanman43
#18 ·
I cannot get the original link to work, keeps giving "403 no permission" error. My head gasket is toast.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top