Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us
07.5 - 09 3rd Gen 6.7L PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine, Transmission, etc...NO ADVERTISING
shouldnt be to hard i helped one of my seargents change the seal out on his 05 2500 did it at night on the street infront of his house poor lighting and three trips to the parts store it only took bought a hour and a half and no you dont have to take the diff apart just drop the front drive shaft and pull the yoke a childers book helps to
2008 2500 QC 4x4 6.7 68rfe, leveled, airaid cai, muffler delete, Pioneer Premier double-din; moto metal 956's 35x12.50r20 copper discoverer STT, Ranch hand legend series front summit series rear, SMARTY 19s
it seems like no matter how many things dodge does right, axle seals is not one of them. Everyone should check them at 35k or 2 years and 9 or 10 months, unless you paid for the extended warranty. They are covered under the powertrain warranty. If you have two or three leaking, throw some diff oil on the others before you take it in.
New: 2008 black MegaCab, 6.7, 4x4, auto, stnd gears, no performance mods, only 18k miles so far
Old: 1997 extended 5.9, 4x4, 5sp, 150k miles, mostly stock but added edelbrock shocks
Just seen that mine is leaking today, at least I think that's where it's coming from. It's stained, but there was a drip under the differential cover itself so it might be coming from there and blowing back. Anyone know where to find the part number off hand?
Found out mine is leaking as well on monday when I changed my motor oil.
If someone does this them selves can you post some pics and steps?? I love doing this stuff myself but have never messed with driveline stuff yet.
Also you guys that are getting it fixed under warranty. Are the stealerships saying anything about engine/exhaust mods?? I am at 95,000 miles and have the 100,000 extended. Just wondering if its worth the hassle?
06 Mega Cab, 5.9 48RE, Predator, Quad BF, AFE Mega Cannon, 5" straight pipe, Iron Bull bumpers, Line X'ed rockers, 20" XD Rockstars, Pioneer DVD/Navigation/XM
I have a few pinion seal installation PICS from my gear install.
First, mark and remove the front driveshaft then remove the unit bearings/axle shafts.
Next, rotate pinion gear 3-4 times then check and record rotational torque with axle shafts pulled.
Next, remove pinion flange nut and washer. If you dont have Miller Tool 8979, you can use a chain wrench or very large pipe wrench.
Next, remove pinion flange with Miller Tool 8992 or with a three bolt puller.
Next, remove the pinion seal with a pry tool. I gently tapped around the outside perimeter of the seal itself to remove the pinion seal.
Next, examine the pinion yoke seal surface for scrapes, gouges or roughness. If you find damage to the seal surface, replace the pinion yoke. Otherwise, clean the seal surface with a scotchbrite pad then wipe clean with a soft cotton rag and brake cleaner.
Next, install the new pinion seal with Miller Tool 8882 and C-4171 or a very large deep well socket or without the tool by using a piece of iron pipe of the appropriate diameter carefully tapping the seal a little at a time. Check the make sure the seal is going in squarely and is not ed.
Next, apply a light coat of teflon thread sealant to the pinion flange splines, and lightly tap the pinion flange on to the pinion gear. Install the pinion flange washer and a new pinion nut. Hold the flange with Miller Tool 8979 and tighten until the end play is taken up in the pinion.
Next, rotate the pinion 3-4 times to seat the bearings. Measure the pinion rotating torque and compare it to the recorded measurement taken earlier (in step 2). Tighten the pinion nut in small increments until the pinion rotating torque is 3-5 in./lbs. greater than the earlier recorded measurement (taken in step 2). Rotate the pinion one more time and re-check pinion rotating torque again. NOTE: this picture is the same one from step 2, and thus has the same recorded torque measurement. Your recorded torque measurement will want to be 3-5 in./lbs higher than your first recorded torque measurement taken in step 2.
IMPORTANT: If you overtighten the pinion nut and the pinion torque is much more than 5 in./lbs. over your initial recorded measurement(in step 2), you may have over crushed the crush sleeve. This will result in decreased pinion bearing life or pinion bearing failure. If this is the case, you will have to install an new crush sleeve on the pinion gear. That proceedure is a little more involved.
Last, reinstall axle shafts and unit bearings then reinstall front driveshaft taking care to realign reference marks.
One last note, some people will shortcut this proceedure by attempting to mark the pinion/pinion nut and/or counting the threads showing on the pinion and tightening the pinion nut to that point. Ultimately, the choice to utilize that method is yours. However, keep in mind that is not the recommended method, and may result in premature pinion bearing failure.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.