Short question on compound turbos

[Torqed]

All the topics on turbos is mind numbing, but I can't seem to find an answer on this...

By upgrading to a compound turbo setup, say the ats with the 3000 and 5000 auroras, would I expect to gain any horsepower? Or by making this mod, it simply would make it possible for the truck to handle additional horsepower?

Before turbo upgrade, I will have the black maxx along with the dpf and egr deletes. Any help is appreciated as this is an expensive venture. Thanks guys.


08 6.7 QC 2500, Tuff Country leveling kit, 18x9 Fuel Wheels, 35x12.5 Nitto TG, Recon lights front and rear

[davematthews]

Originally Posted by Torqed

All the topics on turbos is mind numbing, but I can't seem to find an answer on this...

By upgrading to a compound turbo setup, say the ats with the 3000 and 5000 auroras, would I expect to gain any horsepower? Or by making this mod, it simply would make it possible for the truck to handle additional horsepower?

Before turbo upgrade, I will have the black maxx along with the dpf and egr deletes. Any help is appreciated as this is an expensive venture. Thanks guys.


08 6.7 QC 2500, Tuff Country leveling kit, 18x9 Fuel Wheels, 35x12.5 Nitto TG, Recon lights front and rear

I don't know anything about the ATS setup's.. But if the turbo's are sized correctly and push more volume than what you have. You will make more hp. Now if your fuel and tune arn't upgraded at the same time. It probably won't be much. With the 6.7- you need more air then fuel. You need the air first to do it safely. So figure out what your hp goal is and build to that. make sure no matter what you get the supporting mod's first. They arn't the fun ones, but neither is hg failure, tranny failure, etc...

Supporting mods prior to turbo's---

1. Head Studs
2. Tranny
3. Lift pump

Get your turbo situation figured out, then do your cp3, then your sticks.

Then its curtains on the checkbook and your screwed from here on out.

Good luck

[Torqed]

Lmao! Thanks Dave. I appreciate the help. Definitely didn't know about the head studs, but it certainly makes sense.


08 6.7 QC 2500, Tuff Country leveling kit, 18x9 Fuel Wheels, 35x12.5 Nitto TG, Recon lights front and rear

[DDGTHS08]

Originally Posted by davematthews

I don't know anything about the ATS setup's.. But if the turbo's are sized correctly and push more volume than what you have. You will make more hp. Now if your fuel and tune arn't upgraded at the same time. It probably won't be much. With the 6.7- you need more air then fuel. You need the air first to do it safely. So figure out what your hp goal is and build to that. make sure no matter what you get the supporting mod's first. They arn't the fun ones, but neither is hg failure, tranny failure, etc...

Supporting mods prior to turbo's---

1. Head Studs
2. Tranny
3. Lift pump

Get your turbo situation figured out, then do your cp3, then your sticks.

Then its curtains on the checkbook and your screwed from here on out.

Good luck

Dave, I've read that most twin set ups run with almost a 1:1 ratio of air movement keeping the drive pressures down with really low egts. With that being said if your egts are low and drive drive pressure is good, what else would cause problems for the hg?

[kmkdiesel]

Originally Posted by DDGTHS08

Dave, I've read that most twin set ups run with almost a 1:1 ratio of air movement keeping the drive pressures down with really low egts. With that being said if your egts are low and drive drive pressure is good, what else would cause problems for the hg?

too much boost even with low drive pressure can still blow head gaskets.

[davematthews]

Originally Posted by DDGTHS08

Dave, I've read that most twin set ups run with almost a 1:1 ratio of air movement keeping the drive pressures down with really low egts. With that being said if your egts are low and drive drive pressure is good, what else would cause problems for the hg?

Cyl pressures. You have to understand that increased hp results in increased cyl pressure. Dp does play a roll, egts, etc. But just because they are under control doesn't mean ur out of the woods. Your stock head bolts were engineered for a certain cyl pressure. Which was found by the hp the factory tuned the motor for. Now with any engineering there are shortages and overages. In order to have more ponnies, you have to drive the crank harder, to do that you have to drive the pistons harder, ie more cyl pressure. Ur head bolts/studs keep that pushing down instead of up. No way around it. Sorry. Like i said. They are not the fun mods, but that head is f'g heavy. So do em now and leave ur head in place, or do em later along with the gasket. Its really as simple as that.

[DDGTHS08]

Originally Posted by kmkdiesel

too much boost even with low drive pressure can still blow head gaskets.

How much boost can the 425's hold? I know 625's are BEASTS, just twice the cost. I have DDP 90HP nozzles waiting in the closet until I figure out my turbo situation. What would be a minimum turbo size I would need to run with out having an extra set of eyes for the egts?

I was thinking of building a twin set up in 2 stages.
1st a Steed Speed with EWG and a turbo good small turbo
2nd add the large turbo prob. 475 or 480

Thanks
Robert

[davematthews]

Originally Posted by DDGTHS08

How much boost can the 425's hold? I know 625's are BEASTS, just twice the cost. I have DDP 90HP nozzles waiting in the closet until I figure out my turbo situation. What would be a minimum turbo size I would need to run with out having an extra set of eyes for the egts?

I was thinking of building a twin set up in 2 stages.
1st a Steed Speed with EWG and a turbo good small turbo
2nd add the large turbo prob. 475 or 480

Thanks
Robert

Once again, its not really just one issue.. ie boost, dp, egt's, fuel, etc.. Its a combination of all of them. Amount of boost, amount of fuel, level of dp and egt's, all of them affect cyl pressures. I wouldn't say there's a magic number to what 425's or 625's will hold. I've seen guys running 6-650 hp on 425's with no issue. But those trucks were correctly setup. I would imagine that you could pop 425's on a stock deleted truck with the wrong tune. Don't really know to be honest, I'm not sure anybody can give anything other than maybe an educated guess. If your worried, get the 625's. they are pricey, but it sure would suck to get the 425's and still pop em. Now your out 4 bills for them, 900 for 625's, and a hg repair.

[JessyPayne]

Man..... Id go with 2nd gen kit, with a big single and 90 nozzles or 125's, thats what Im going with, I wanted compounds and everyone says No.... that 2nd gen kit is better

[warlock06]

stock head bolts ....good for stock truck MAYBE !
425 STUDS ....good fro around 45 psi boost if drive pressure is in check
625 STUDS.....good for 60 plus psi if everything is in check.

[mattpopp]

Originally Posted by JessyPayne

Man..... Id go with 2nd gen kit, with a big single and 90 nozzles or 125's, thats what Im going with, I wanted compounds and everyone says No.... that 2nd gen kit is better

I love my twins and I will not be dropping down to a single. THe big single's are not ideal for towing. Alot of guys are not spooling these big singles until like 1800 or 2000 rpms. Which is very laggy and you have to learn how to drive around that turbo.

2nd Gen is a good route to take. Does not matter if you go with a single or twins. If you have to buy a new manifold might as well go the 2nd gen route as it flows better.


side note: No such thing as 425 studs, They are called ARP 2000.

[operator62]

Another option is IF you wanted to pull the head are fire rings, but that's not for everyone. I only did them cuz the fire ring gasket and rings are relatively cheap, and I work at a shop with the adapter and cutter head for cutting them. So, I did them myself plus some porting and polishing. I used H-11 head studs which torque the same as the 2000s or 425s, whatever you want to call them, but with the fire rings they should be good to 75psi if you only cut grooves in the head. If you cut grooves in head and block then you are good for 80psi+. Also, I'd talk with Forced Inductions or just go with a source automotive kit for the compounds. I'd stay away from ATS. Not the best products, and not the best customer service.