I would call firepunk but they are closed right now. Is it possible to install this compound kit with an a/c. I cannot believe I did not ask this BEFORE i bought it. Is there any thing that has to be modified when I install this?
Yep, you'll have to be very careful and bend the out of the way. I went ahead and thermal wrapped them as well to keep the heat away. This is about the best pictures I've got since that truck is in pieces now.
Once you replace coolant hose, once everything's installed let it idle cold with radiator cap off. The lack of vacuum lets the air out and cycle through. Once you see coolant just rippling at the edge your good.
^^^^ this, I'm pretty sure I just torn a whole engine down because of excessive pressure in the system and all it is, is the radiator cap.
You will definitely need some plugs though.
The hose you're talking of I removed completely because I needed all three ports on top of the oil filter housing. So I bought the rerouted line from stainless diesel. If you only need the 2 ports then source automotive makes a shorter one.
The hose you're talking of I removed completely because I needed all three ports on top of the oil filter housing. So I bought the rerouted line from stainless diesel. If you only need the 2 ports then source automotive makes a shorter one.
When you switched the line around did you just come off the water neck down below and come all the way under everything to the firewall and come up there? I need to do this. I want to use the 3rd port for oil pressure sensor or trips.
Also what size turbine housing on the 66? And how do you like it?
The AC line is pretty straightforward to bend out of the way. Mine had a steel drier canister and I was still able to twist it out of the way while charged. I used a ratchet strap to the fender and down to the transfer case area and then prybared it after heating the joint at the top of the drier.
Turbo blankets do wonders if your at all worried about anything next to your exhaust housings getting warm. Even the cheapo ones are worth the time imo
I used the stainless diesel one that is like a 12v setup.
You can see it come up and go back by the manifold. The crank case drip tube is zip tied to it
I did it cause I had a bypass filter as well. If I was to do it again I'm going to just extend the lines on the block and water neck that are blocking the third port up a little more to clear it. If that makes since.
It's a 74 wheel in a 1.0 housing and I feel it can handle plenty more fuel. Still drove great with just the injector tips that I had. Never got it to run to the full potential as I had a problem with the rail gauge causing the truck not to build rail pressure. Now it's all torn to pieces and I'm on the fence with what goals I want out of it. Probably won't be till fall till it's all back together.
I want to say closer to 150%. They did great for me and that was just throwing them on myself. Not the perferred way obviously but still did great. As for the 66/80 I'm planning on swapping the 80 to an 85 for now and getting some 300%'s and see how it goes. Then adjusting once it's up and running. Probably be around Christmas time till I get it back running.
Thank you for the reply.
The coolant plugs are on back order from shibby. Do I have to have that coolant pipe that you posted in the link? Do you mean excessive coolant pressure? Anything I can do to prevent it from happening to mine?
You don't have to worry about the excessive pressure I was having. As long as you bleed the system good. Just Jack it way up in the front and let her run as you fill and let the system burp. I was just saying I think I pulled mine apart cause I though something blew out but was most likely from a bad cap. Let her run for awhile and burp the air out and you'll be fine.
I do have some DYI plugs here if you want to get it up and running. Pm me your address if you want them.
The link isn't necessary unless the oem one gets in the way of your piping but also looks a lot better.
Yeah I know what you mean. I did mine in a storage after I just drove there. Engine was a little warm haha. I took out my inner fenders and used a pivoting head 3/4 ratchet to get the Trans support bracket off and put the bypass on. To punch out the plug I took the bracket on the D/S of the Trans where the harness is to get in there with a punch and hammer. Really isn't too bad if you drain the coolant prior and let the engine cool.
The coolant tube will still be there. All it really does away with if the rear freeze plug. All the coolant hoses stay the same. It's more of a coolant relief than a bypass.
Just did the fleece and it wasnt near as bad as I thought it was going to be. I had to remove an adapter place that connects the block to the transmission that was for 15mm(i think), two on the drivers side and two on the passengers side
I torqued the stainless diesel manifold down to 35lbs. Do you think this is too much?
Also what does the support bar for the primary bolt to? I just now got the smaller turbo on the truck so maybe it will become apparent when I get the primary on.
What thermo stat are you running for your OE stat? I currently have a 180 which of course is not the 190 from the factory.
I noticed that the fleece coolant bypass came with a 180 thermo.
35 lbs/ft on the stainless allen cap bolts will back out. I ran mine to 50 before giving up them cause they still wouldn't stay tight.
For mounting, on all CR blocks I've seen so far, both 5.9 and 6.7, there are 2 open bolt holes from the factory in front of the oem motor mount. On my truck one hole was occupied by a ground strap.
Makes me nervous that the 1st gen guys were having issues with them cracking the head due to heat cycling. I guess I will run them at 35 and go back and check them.
And to maybe ease your mind from another thread, if you haven't returned it yet, after more research and picture creeping some of the most powerful trucks in UCC run a fluiddampr as well as the firepunk truck.
I rerouted mine exactly as such with 7/8ths high temp silicone hose coming from fire wall, and also wrapped with thermal shield where it passes the manifold. I dont like the solid lines because of the vibration aspect.
There was alot of back on forth years ago when we used to just plug the block. Because of the rerouting of coolant to the rear blocks most opted to maintain that coolant flow.
sorry to keep asking but I am trying to order the parts to get this right.
Today I went around town looking for a fitting that would fit in the block (I am guessing 3/8 but it seemed very loose is it metric?) and have a 5/8" barb but I had no luck
Does anyone know what size the block is and where I can get a 5/8 barb that will plug into the block?
If not then I may have to do this to get it to work but I will need to find a 3/4 to 5/8 adapter of some sort since the blue is 5/8 and the yellow is 3/4
Did you use the metal coolant pipe sticking up in the picture above?
Where exactly did you drain the blue hose into? (the pipe or the side of the block?)
Did your oil line touch the hot side turbo flange? Is that ok to be setting like that?
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