Finally pulled the turbo and have sent it off to HTT for a rebuild and mod to the turbine section (65mm) hoping to drop DP and increase reliablility somewhat. They also offer a compressor mod (up to 66mm); cash is tight right now, but may be getting a 62 upgrade down the road. A set of twins is still on the table (ATS may be getting the nod here). Once installed I'll give everyone a report; should be back by next Friday.
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norfla71
About 1,200 ($650 rebuild, 375 turbine mod, 200 remanned actuator) not counting shipping ($100 each way with insurance, unless HTT picks up the return tab). Compressor mod is $400; according to HTT they can just mod your housing and send you the wheel for DIY install, but recommend you pull the turbo again for balancing. Even at $1,700 I still think this may be a good value comparred to what remanned units go for online ($1,600 without mods).
After all the back and forth, finally decided this was the best course of action for my needs. Turbo swaps have their merits, but also a cost. I don't have the cash for it, and IMO, the stocker seems to work for my needs.; this can only help. Also saves some more cash for a trans rebuild.
After all the back and forth, finally decided this was the best course of action for my needs. Turbo swaps have their merits, but also a cost. I don't have the cash for it, and IMO, the stocker seems to work for my needs.; this can only help. Also saves some more cash for a trans rebuild.
Shipping was more; the lady misweighed it, was 45#. With insurance, was about $128. Even with shipping I'm looking at about $1,330.
HTT offers a 62 or 64 compressor upgrade, no 66mm currently available. And the rebuild can be done with the stock turbine, or upgraded to the larger 10-blade option.
Incorrect, sir; per phone conversation with Jacob White last week (great to deal with, btw) you can get a 66mm compressor upgrade. If I were to do it this time I would stick with the 62, as I tow pretty heavy. Cost is $400; not sure why it costs more to upgrade the compressor housing, but it's $25 more.
I just re-read my OP, and that may be where the confusion is steming from; it should read 65mm turbine housing. Fixed now
One other upgrade I requested was to install threaded plugs in place of the press-in freeze plugs; mine were pretty crusty and had a nice tinge of green all around. That's the last thing I need to fail after all this.
I just re-read my OP, and that may be where the confusion is steming from; it should read 65mm turbine housing. Fixed now
One other upgrade I requested was to install threaded plugs in place of the press-in freeze plugs; mine were pretty crusty and had a nice tinge of green all around. That's the last thing I need to fail after all this.
Just read a message from Jacob. Apparently they are having issues with the actuators; most seem to be plug and play with no cal required, others throw codes after a couple of days (without warning), so just something to be aware of. My local dealer will cal it for $125. A new Holset unit is nearly as much as what this build will cost, which is why they try to use only remanned units.
Just to be sure I remembered correctly I also asked about the compressor upgrade; should hear back this morning.
Just to be sure I remembered correctly I also asked about the compressor upgrade; should hear back this morning.
I had my 351 modified and I'm pulling 29-32 # of boost on a stock tune. Down side is the coolant temp gets hot quick so I can't imagine what the cylinder temps do when it's on a tune. Keep us updated on your build!
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They got the turbo broken down; it's in good shape and actuator works fine, just some gunk in the coolant passages, so a coolant flush is in order. Really lucked out here; because everything is good they are just going to ship an exact one on the shelf for $1,470.50 (includes shipping) - normal price is $2,100. Out on FedEx today, should get here NLT Thursday.
Now I need to get another coolant fitting seal and coolant pipe to engine hose.
Now I need to get another coolant fitting seal and coolant pipe to engine hose.
From Jacob:
The biggest issue is that there is a piston ring on the exhaust side bearing housing (shown in the picture) that seals with the vane cage. On your turbo, that ring is seized up and stuck, which would explain the code you got. That isn't something that will fix itself doing a normal cleaning on this turbo. It would've needed to be disassembled like we have it to be repaired. Your bearings also show some where from some form of debris in the oil possibly. The thrust pad had some signs of drive pressure (we see that on every 351Ve).
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![Image]()
The biggest issue is that there is a piston ring on the exhaust side bearing housing (shown in the picture) that seals with the vane cage. On your turbo, that ring is seized up and stuck, which would explain the code you got. That isn't something that will fix itself doing a normal cleaning on this turbo. It would've needed to be disassembled like we have it to be repaired. Your bearings also show some where from some form of debris in the oil possibly. The thrust pad had some signs of drive pressure (we see that on every 351Ve).
Turbo should be here today. Since the coolant needs to be flushed bought a gallon of Fleetguard Restore and 3 gallons of Cat ELC. Since the front of the engine is now easier to access also replacing the water pump, idler, tensioner and belt.
Turbo arrived, sans oil drain gasket; Jacob is refunding the $14 ransom Dodge wants for it.
Shiny newness
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![Image]()
![Image]()
Shiny newness
Install is giving me a headache; in younger days I could have just thrown that 50# chunk of metal in and bolted it right up. Now, I need to pull the manifold, which is a PITA. Also replacing water pump, idler, tensioner and belt at the same time; another PITA.
Once installed and coolant flushed I'll get back with everyone.
Once installed and coolant flushed I'll get back with everyone.
Result!
This is what 8 hours of my labor looks like
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![Image]()
Now the fun begins:
can't wait to get the manifold on and keep those 18 gaskets in place, while trying balance and install an assembled manifold and turbo. Two fell out and went into the downpipe; good thing it's big enough to fit a hand into. I also have a belt, tensioner, idler, water pump and t-stat to install, along with about 10,000 bolts and assorted hardware to refit, then remembering every wiring and coolant connection. Considering this is averaging only about once every 7 years next time I'll pay to get it done (if ever). Next thing to go may be the manifold itself, as it looks like rusty crap, and don't know how long it will hold together without cracks developing.
This is what 8 hours of my labor looks like
Now the fun begins:
can't wait to get the manifold on and keep those 18 gaskets in place, while trying balance and install an assembled manifold and turbo. Two fell out and went into the downpipe; good thing it's big enough to fit a hand into. I also have a belt, tensioner, idler, water pump and t-stat to install, along with about 10,000 bolts and assorted hardware to refit, then remembering every wiring and coolant connection. Considering this is averaging only about once every 7 years next time I'll pay to get it done (if ever). Next thing to go may be the manifold itself, as it looks like rusty crap, and don't know how long it will hold together without cracks developing.
2nd update
At this point truck is 100% apart where I need it to be; not for reassembly
Decided to pull the radiator; gave more clearance and to see how much of a PITA it will be when I need to do it. Only took about an hour, and with no damage. Eventually I'll replace it with a Mishimoto all aluminum unit.
Everything on the ground
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First shot kind of dark but shows all coolers and condenser loose
![Image]()
![Image]()
Perfect timing, as the belt has started to melt to every pulley. The water pump has a plastic impeller, which failed on my VW at about this mileage, and have a metal impeller pump, along with an HD green silicone belt. All wear parts are from Car Quest, the only place around who stocks Cummins water pumps around here, and are about half of what the other chains stores want (and don't charge a core).
All told, not counting shipping or those 2 parts I lost or broke, I'm in for about $1,900 (turbo, 4 gallons Cat ELC, 1 gallon Fleetguard Restore coolant flush, tensioner, idler, water pump, belt, thermostat) and nearly 10 hours labor now.
The saga continues...
At this point truck is 100% apart where I need it to be; not for reassembly
Decided to pull the radiator; gave more clearance and to see how much of a PITA it will be when I need to do it. Only took about an hour, and with no damage. Eventually I'll replace it with a Mishimoto all aluminum unit.
Everything on the ground
First shot kind of dark but shows all coolers and condenser loose
Perfect timing, as the belt has started to melt to every pulley. The water pump has a plastic impeller, which failed on my VW at about this mileage, and have a metal impeller pump, along with an HD green silicone belt. All wear parts are from Car Quest, the only place around who stocks Cummins water pumps around here, and are about half of what the other chains stores want (and don't charge a core).
All told, not counting shipping or those 2 parts I lost or broke, I'm in for about $1,900 (turbo, 4 gallons Cat ELC, 1 gallon Fleetguard Restore coolant flush, tensioner, idler, water pump, belt, thermostat) and nearly 10 hours labor now.
The saga continues...
It's alive!!!
Finally got the dang oil drain in, but have to get new hardware, as one of the bolts rounded and the other disappeared into the abyss of the frame somewhere; had to use slightly smaller bolts. Left the intake and downpipe off, for now, and it sounds like a healthy 5.9.
So far no leaks or odd noises. Second biggest PITA was getting that stupid belt on; finally had to use some sch. 40 PVC and a ratchet to hold while I routed it.
I'll get some video soon, promise, so long as my camera can make vids.
Finally got the dang oil drain in, but have to get new hardware, as one of the bolts rounded and the other disappeared into the abyss of the frame somewhere; had to use slightly smaller bolts. Left the intake and downpipe off, for now, and it sounds like a healthy 5.9.
So far no leaks or odd noises. Second biggest PITA was getting that stupid belt on; finally had to use some sch. 40 PVC and a ratchet to hold while I routed it.
I'll get some video soon, promise, so long as my camera can make vids.
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