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I have a 2008 Mega 2500 6.7. 38,000 miles...dpf delete with smarty. My AC compressor won't come on. I checked the fuse...I checked power at the plug going to compressor..and there is none. The light on the button inside turns on when pushed...but nothing. No damage to system and is holding pressure. Anyone have any thoughts on where to start? Anyway to jump the pressure switch? Would that not let compressor even try to come on? Looking for ideas. Also would anyone have a wireing schematics for this truck?
Thanks!!
I jumped the pressure switch. Not or sure which wire i needed to jump...there was three..I check voltage...had5 volts on two of them. does this seem correct? Well jumped 10 ways of sunday...compressor never kicked on. What else...anyone have schematics....
My AC compressor went out at 40K miles. Dealer had no idea why either. (Imagine that). The pulley still turned but the compressor would not engage or click after the button was pushed. Took the dealer two days to get a replacement and was covered by warranty.
Hey I have the same problem with my 07 C&C 6.7. The clutch won't kick in and the system is all good. I was going to jump the high pressure sw also. If that didn't work it must be the control module or what. If you find out more or get any flowcharts or diagrams please let me know. Thx
I have a 2008 Mega 2500 6.7. 38,000 miles...dpf delete with smarty. My AC compressor won't come on. I checked the fuse...I checked power at the plug going to compressor..and there is none. The light on the button inside turns on when pushed...but nothing. No damage to system and is holding pressure. Anyone have any thoughts on where to start? Anyway to jump the pressure switch? Would that not let compressor even try to come on? Looking for ideas. Also would anyone have a wireing schematics for this truck?
Thanks!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lcrat
Hey I have the same problem with my 07 C&C 6.7. The clutch won't kick in and the system is all good. I was going to jump the high pressure sw also. If that didn't work it must be the control module or what. If you find out more or get any flowcharts or diagrams please let me know. Thx
If you guys want to use the 'when in doubt, jump it out' method with jumper wires, feel free. However, you need to be jumping out the LOW pressure switch, not the high. While the HP switch will disengage the clutch, loss of pressure or a flat system is going to trigger the LP switch.
That said, does anybody know if these pressure switches are NO or NC?
I had a similar problem a little over a year ago. Clutch would not engage at times. Finally went underneath truck, with engine running, clutch not engaged, and moved the wire going into the compressor. As soon as I moved the wire, the clutch engaged and stayed on. Went to the dealer explaining what I had done, and the tech determined there was a bad relay in the compressor. They replaced compressor and everything worked until last week. Same problem. Clutch not engaged. I once again moved the wire going into compressor, and the clutch engaged. This time, however, when I let go of the wire, the clutch disengaged. Grabbed the wire, clutch again engaged; let go of the wire, clutch disengaged. Frustrated, I moved my hand to the connector. When I held the connector, the clutch engaged; when I let go, clutch disengaged. I then decided to push the wires going to and from the connector firmly into the connector. Clutch kicked in and stayed on. AC worked from that point on, constant use, while on my trip, and continues to work. Took truck to shop and explained to tech what had occurred and what I had done. He tried duplicating the problem but could not. He moved the wire and connector for several minutes but clutch remained on. He believes the wires going into the connector were not properly seated, and believes my actions corrected the problem. I hope this is the case. A very frustrating situation when you count on your AC in 92 degree weather. We will see what happens. Hope this information is of some help.
Guys - there are a ton of posts on here about this already do a search...
The AC compressor is a Mag-drive unit, and even though the AC compressor will run just fine if you put 12 volts to it, the TIPM (think that is correct) is a module under the fuse box that has an over current sensor in it. If the AC Compressor draws too much current on start up the overcurrent sensor caused the TIPM to go into a protection mode and cuts power to the compressor.
So basically as these compressors gets a little older and worn out, they draw more amps and we pay for Dodge's crappy parts once again.
The overamp code is a P1275, I just got my first one yesterday, the truck has 50K miles on it, and of course is out of warranty.
These parts really are crap... I had a 1991 Jeep Cherokee that had the original AC compressor in it, used R-12, and it still ran when I sold it last year, and it blew colder than this R-134a junk.
Anyway - check your codes - jumping stuff out can cause you to short out that TIPM and that board costs @$800.
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