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Old 12-10-2011, 09:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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truck overheating no cab heat

i have 60,000 miles on my truck and i cant keep the radiator full. it keeps pushing into the overflow. i havent spent much time on it yet been busy with work but now its getting cold and i need heat in the cab. where should i start. i tested cap and only held 13 psi so i replaced, quick and easy but not the answer.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:12 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Sounds like you may have a head gasket issue? Did you remove the EGR cooler entirely? If not that could be cracked and air locking your heater core supply.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:15 PM   #3 (permalink)
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i only unplugged egr
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Could also be a water pump. Good friend of mine was having the same issue. One shop said oh its head studs the shop changed the water pump and hes been trouble free since.
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Could also be a water pump. Good friend of mine was having the same issue. One shop said oh its head studs the shop changed the water pump and hes been trouble free since.
This happend to me with my 2004 i was told it was the head gasket. got the head gasket done, got it back and it continued to happen. in the end it was the water pump. so i'd start there cause it's way cheaper of a fix 800$ vs 2000$
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Old 12-10-2011, 11:59 PM   #6 (permalink)
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This happend to me with my 2004 i was told it was the head gasket. got the head gasket done, got it back and it continued to happen. in the end it was the water pump. so i'd start there cause it's way cheaper of a fix 800$ vs 2000$
Water pump is not $800. In fact you can buy an aftermarket one yourself for about $60 and install it yourself. But as he is an '08 it should still be covered under the 100k powertrain warrantee. My '07.5 was a couple months ago.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I had the same exact problems when I popped my head gaskett last winter. Truck would blow ice cold "heat" into cab, coolant kept puking from over flow, and lots of pressure was forming in the coolant system, which is what causes your coolant to not circulate. I'd find a way to plug into your coolant system with a PSI gauge of some sort. With normal temps and operating cooling pressure, you should't see more then 5-8psi. If your getting more than that, cylinder pressure is entering you coolant system pressuring it up and not letting the coolant circulate around. This is something I would diagnose soon, as I have seen blown head gastkets and overheating require machining of the head/block which can get expensive.
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Water pump is not $800. In fact you can buy an aftermarket one yourself for about $60 and install it yourself. But as he is an '08 it should still be covered under the 100k powertrain warrantee. My '07.5 was a couple months ago.
As a rule in the states get your parts for much cheaper then we normally do north of the border. 800$ was high, the shop did some other work for me I forgot about. I dug out my work order, the water pump cheapest one i could get my hands on was 140$. after labour and what not i was looking at about 350$ installed for the water pump. but not everyone has the time, place or tools to do all there own repairs. i hate having mechanics do my work that normally i'd do myself, but some times its just not in the cards to do your own repairs. he is also running deleted if its the truck in his Sig, so his warranty voided unless he is lucky enough to have a dealer thats willing to look past that.
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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K, there's a lot being thrown around here. Here's the order of business:

1) Buy a few feet of heater hose and re-route the coolant AROUND the EGR cooler to see if the problem goes away after fully bleeding the coolant system. If it goes away, EGR cooler is cracked and you won't need that under the hood any longer.
2) Water pump.
3) Head Gasket.

That is the exact order I would go with.
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Old 12-11-2011, 02:23 AM   #10 (permalink)
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I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong but you can get your truck up to operating temp and pop the cap off the radiator and spit it it to see if the water is being pushed (pumped) and flowing. That will tell you if your water pump is working.


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Old 12-11-2011, 12:22 PM   #11 (permalink)
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could also be low coolent
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:30 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sandman76 View Post
K, there's a lot being thrown around here. Here's the order of business:

1) Buy a few feet of heater hose and re-route the coolant AROUND the EGR cooler to see if the problem goes away after fully bleeding the coolant system. If it goes away, EGR cooler is cracked and you won't need that under the hood any longer.
2) Water pump.
3) Head Gasket.

That is the exact order I would go with.
I agree all the way!! This is where i would start out too. Dont fix whats not broke to find out you still dont have it fixed. I would be pissed if i did head studs to find out i coulda changed a $60 water pump!!
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