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Old 02-27-2012, 02:02 PM   #625 (permalink)
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he never really found a cause for 0 compression on #2. I don't think the cylinder was scored bad enough for total compression loss. I thought there must have been a bent or stuck valve.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:14 PM   #626 (permalink)
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he never really found a cause for 0 compression on #2. I don't think the cylinder was scored bad enough for total compression loss. I thought there must have been a bent or stuck valve.
Which is why I was surprised when the head didn't get rebuilt.

Another thing I am not understanding is why the misfire went away after the second valve adjustment. The valves have to be adjusted after you put the head back on. A second adjustment and wala no more misfire ?

As the valves wear, does the valve lash get smaller or larger ? My guess in all this is that the valve wear on his engine made the lash get smaller, ie the seats wore until the point that a valve on #2 was no longer sealing properly. At that point hot combustion gas was escaping out the valve and eventually it cooked the oil in the valve guide and the valve stuck, thus bending the push rod.

That being the case, the offending valve and valve guide still needs attention and others may have been in the same condition.

But that is all pure speculation on my part.

There is no way I would have put the head back on that engine without rebuilding it. The next owner has a ticking bomb on his hands.
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Old 02-27-2012, 03:49 PM   #627 (permalink)
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Which is why I was surprised when the head didn't get rebuilt.

Another thing I am not understanding is why the misfire went away after the second valve adjustment. The valves have to be adjusted after you put the head back on. A second adjustment and wala no more misfire ?

As the valves wear, does the valve lash get smaller or larger ? My guess in all this is that the valve wear on his engine made the lash get smaller, ie the seats wore until the point that a valve on #2 was no longer sealing properly. At that point hot combustion gas was escaping out the valve and eventually it cooked the oil in the valve guide and the valve stuck, thus bending the push rod.

That being the case, the offending valve and valve guide still needs attention and others may have been in the same condition.

But that is all pure speculation on my part.

There is no way I would have put the head back on that engine without rebuilding it. The next owner has a ticking bomb on his hands.
As to where everywhere I post up, I leave this thread. Any other day I would have had the head rebuilt. But from my inspection of all the valves and doing the water drain test, and visual inspection with it on, I didnt see the need to do that since I will be selling truck as whole or parting it out. My egts are great, coolant temps are great, it runs smooth now. No issues other then a exhaust leak or something that im having trouble finding out. I cant build enough boost at stop for it to make that whistle noise, but WOT for the first second you hear it, or EB you hear it, or taking off at a light you hear it, but if you go to slow or faster it goes away or you dont hear it. Ive drivern 200 miles since repair, no issues. Honestly, I didnt want to put the money into the head when im selling it for this cheap or parting it. I didnt even think it was gonna start with my DIY knowledge of something ive never done before.

Remember #5 was on its way out also. I wish I remember which ones were off. I appreciate your knowledge, it helps me understand better
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:00 PM   #628 (permalink)
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he never really found a cause for 0 compression on #2. I don't think the cylinder was scored bad enough for total compression loss. I thought there must have been a bent or stuck valve.

Oh, my bad. Never informed you guys, the bottom side of piston had a hole in it. Couldnt see it because the angle of picture. It just knicked the edge of hole. Big enough to almost put your finger in it. Didnt even see the hole till the piston was pull from block
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:21 PM   #629 (permalink)
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The next owner has a ticking bomb on his hands.
uhm.... Let's look at the big picture here....

The truck has 440,000+ miles.
It has been in severe service all of it's life.
It is a for hire commercial vehicle.
It is 140,000 miles past the scheduled overhaul interval.


It's a ticking time Bomb for anybody.

The truck has devalued into practical negative equity even before there were issues.

Smartest move was to repair as cheaply as possible.

This vehicle is well beyond it's practical service life as a severe duty commercial vehicle.


I say, good job lohs! A DIY repair, and you didn't unload excessive liquid assets into a near loss asset. Smart move.
Plus, you aren't hiding the repair. All information is available to any potential buyer.

Merrick
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Old 02-27-2012, 04:50 PM   #630 (permalink)
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Oh, my bad. Never informed you guys, the bottom side of piston had a hole in it. Couldnt see it because the angle of picture. It just knicked the edge of hole. Big enough to almost put your finger in it. Didnt even see the hole till the piston was pull from block
So an injector was leaking ? Metal fatigue ?

Or is this a symptom of the valve issue ? A hole in the piston doesn't explain pushrod damage unless a piece of the piston got between the piston crown and a valve, but you didn't show us any damaged valves either.

I understand your interest in getting it back together and getting it sold. However, just a little bit more information would help all of us learn from your situation.

Maybe its just me, but I've found the last part of your thread a bit hard to follow. There is still a missing link in this story.
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:14 PM   #631 (permalink)
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So an injector was leaking ? Metal fatigue ?

Or is this a symptom of the valve issue ? A hole in the piston doesn't explain pushrod damage unless a piece of the piston got between the piston crown and a valve, but you didn't show us any damaged valves either.

I understand your interest in getting it back together and getting it sold. However, just a little bit more information would help all of us learn from your situation.

Maybe its just me, but I've found the last part of your thread a bit hard to follow. There is still a missing link in this story.
List of steps......

Truck misfired in 1 second from running perfectly up a hill..
code reader read misfire 2..
found out pushrod #2 was badly bent and #5 was slightly bent..
compression #2 had 0...
took off head to find bad piston with cracks and hole... Star patterns perfect and same on all.. Never had issues before truck broke down. Pics posted of head before cleaned and after. Head shows no signs of damage and passed DIY leak down test. As of now, I see no more damage, assembly time.

Honed #2 best I could, did other lightly. Piston rings came off #2 were new looking still, but got replaced with new. Sanded down bottom of head and valves and wirebrushed around seats. then did DIY leak test all appeared same. No metal shavings at all in oilpan. oa came back 5000 miles prior to breakdown perfect. Also sanded down piston tops and blow, new gasket although original gasket still looked new.

Ive might of messed up the adjustment on 2 before I was taking it apart. Cant remember others. I think 5 exhast was to tight, 6 loose. hit or miss, wasnt keeping track as I didnt think that was causing the problem and something else was ultimatly wrong. Did a hand job valve job and she started up. Put 200 miles on it city and hwy. no issues runs like a champ, no vibes, no smoke, low egts, low coolant, great oil pressure idle and wot. She moves quickly. Still havent even fine tuned the valves but most were on, just a couple I think 2,3,5 or around that area. Maybe the exhaust side. who knows. prolly should of paid attention there but at that point I was thinking nah.........

Wish I could tell you more........ This motor is so smooth, you would have to drive it to believe it. I would trust this truck in a heartbeat OTR, yah its been breaking down past 100k miles but really you look at it, everything is about replaced minus the motor and between pics and dyno and oa's , no doubt this is not that big of a ticking time bomb, so to speak. Yah, I agree, the head should of been taking apart, I even bought the tool, 2 of them now, first didnt work. But by the time I got the piston in, im like, gosh, I can start her up in a few more hours........ So thats where im at. I would of done a full compression again, but I already gave it back to mechanic and that would of taken 1 hour of my time.. Not alot, but I was anxious to feel proud, or a failure.



.................................


Now with that all said, somebody wants to come and buy it. Im willing to work with ya on doing a full compression test and taking apart the head, if the cash is there of course. For further diagnosis. Say something is there or not, it will cure the itch to alot of people. As of now, I know theres always a reason why something breaks, but as is now, im just going by wear and tear and that pushrod past its balance point of bendage and thats why it happened instantly. And the extra few miles I had to drive to pull on median caused the heat for the cracks and hole to happen. Or maybe the hole happened from leaving it running unfixed for maybe over 30 minutes or so multiple starts up and off trailer bringing it home...

Case be now, she purrs good as new imho. but if it breaks in another 1000 miles or 10000 miles or 500000 miles, only time will tell!!! Just not from me anymore..........
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:44 PM   #632 (permalink)
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:03 PM   #633 (permalink)
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Heres a cold start video right now taken at 80f weather. Click on picture to start video.

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Old 03-25-2012, 01:22 AM   #634 (permalink)
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good write up... Id've just traded it in!!
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:22 AM   #635 (permalink)
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good write up... Id've just traded it in!!
Thats what the simple man with no time would of done, im complicated with too much time on my hands now. Nice to see you over here now Angelo
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:33 AM   #636 (permalink)
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one question did you loose power when the missfire happen
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