Here is the cycle time for the heaters from the Dodge manual.-
PREHEAT, BEFORE START CYCLE
Above 59 degrees F does not activate
18 degrees F to 59 degrees F Cycles for 10 seconds
1 degree F to 18 degree F Cycles for 15 seconds
-15 degres F to 0 degrees F Cycles for 17.5 seconds
below -15 degrees F Cycles for 20 seconds
POST HEAT, ENGINE RUNNING CYCLE?
Above 59 degrees F No
18 degrees F to 59 degrees F Yes
1 degree F to 18 degrees F Yes
-15 degrees F to 0 degrees F Yes
Below -15 degrees F Yes
I have put together a general instruction set for installing the
governor spring in our VE pumps. Would those who have done it please
read it thru carefully and let me know what I've missed, put in by
mistake, described wrong or anything else. I want this to be as
complete as possible because the "nervous factor" is fairly high on
this mod... at least for most of us that is...
Hope this is of some help for folks trying to find the stock tach plug.
May also apply to 91.5 and newer as well as the 92 and 93's.
The plug is a small flat plug and is located close to the steering
column under the dash. The repair manual calls out "Near the fuse
block". I think the plug is grey but can't remember for sure. There are
4 wires going to it -
orange - Switched 12V
red - switched 12v to signal flasher(don't ask cause I don't know!! )
Gray - tach signal from the PCM
The crankshaft position sensor is where the signal originates and then
goes to the PCM and on to the plug. You should be able to check for a
reading at the gray wire with a digital meter. My PCM was bad and it
took me a year to figure out what was going on. A new PCM solved the
I don't mean to go on and on here but maybe this will help to understand it a bit better.
Normally our pumps have a physical governed limit of roughly 2500-2550
RPM. That is the max upper limit that the engine will turn over under
wide open throttle. This means that in "N" or "P" that with the
throttle pedal on the floor, the engine will rev to 2500 or so and
that's it, no matter how long you hold the pedal down, it won't climb
Here is an Email that a member sent me regarding unhooking the TPS
and using a potentiometer in its place. It is a fairley straight
forward prrocedure. Instead of a 10 turn pot, I used a one turn. I can
set the pointer anywhere between the 9 oclock and 1 oclock locations. I
crank the dial up when towing so it shifts a little later and turn it
down for everyday driving so it shifts sooner.
To change the steering shaft, the first thingI did was remove the front
wheel. Make sure to turn the front wheels so you have good acess to the
roll pin on the steering shaft before you jack the truck up. Next, take
a pair of vise grips or pliers and pull out the orange plastic piece
that is inside the roll pin.