This may not be the most technical write up and I'm no expert but, I figured I'd give it a try. It might hep someone :-)
A few pics of my rearranged custom install Walbro pump and MK+II kit.
Richard @ GDP was a big help in answering any question I had. Thanks
I changed all my fuel lines over to stainless and all the fittings -AN.
I know, I know.... some of you will think it's over kill but, I figure
I want to do the sweetest job I can with all my mods. Plus, to change a
bad lift pump or its filter… all I need is a crescent wrench.
I don't know if it's because I have an 07 but, with the filter mounted
on the relocation bracket any where I tried to mount it on the frame
rail, the filter hung at least 2" to 3" below it. This was
unacceptable, not that I was going to be rock crawling but it was just
too exposed. I didn't care for the horizontal option either, that would
make a mess of a filter change and you’re taking the chance of letting
dirty fuel into your CP3 line.
So, if anyone else has this problem.... here's one idea to deal with
it. The relocation bracket comes as kind of an L shape with 2 support
braces on it. I took a grinder to the spot welds on the braces and
Then, I used a table vise to straighten out the bracket so it was flat.
I ran a little tig weld bead across the seam on the bracket to help
make it rigid.
As you can see in the picture... I was now able to screw the bracket to
the support beam for the cab. There's plenty of room once the screw
goes through for it to NOT penetrate the floor of the cab and the
filter is above the frame.
Dropping the tank is the biggest part of this job. It sounds
intimidating but, really… it’s not. I was able to drop and reinstall
the tank by myself. It sure helped that it was just about bone dry! I
did help too that my truck is lifted 6”.
Without releasing the rear tank strap all the way, I did remove the
front strap and used a floor jack to support it while I removed the OEM
fuel lines and harness plug. Then it was just a matter of releasing the
rear tank strap for it to drop right out. Then it’s time to drill your
hole in the tank for the bulk head fitting. Be SURE to collect up all
the shavings after drilling. I used a 15/16” paddle bit. I held my hand
in the tank under the bit to try and catch everything. A few nice
chunks got by and fell in the tank though that would have been a real
problem had they not been removed. That's it! ;-)
Anyone planning to install one of Richards kits.... don't be shy at
all. It's easy as pie. Richard’s kit comes with everything needed for
the job and complete detailed ( with pictures ) instructions. One thing
I should say about the rubber hoses and JIC fittings that come with his
kit…. Be SURE to seat the hose all the way to the yellow thingy. Leaks
are likely without doing this.
If you’re interested in doing the SS route like mine, it does obviously
add to the cost. I may put together a few SS kits so, let me know if
you’d like one. Or, with the correct sizes and time it’s easily done by
For Richards kit, GDP can be found here...... Glacier Diesel Power
this pic show the line at the CP3...