>>Installation of Governor Spring: Bosch #1-464-650-366 in the
Bosch VE injection pump. The part should not be more than about 15-18$.
(About the same in Can. $$ depending on dealer.)
This mod can be done with the pump on the truck.
There is some disassembly of the VE pump required to complete this modification.
Keeping the internals of the VE pump free from dirt/dust/debris is extremely important.
The following instructions may not be 100% complete since most of us, including me, are not pump tech's.
1) Mark current pump timing locations on pump and gear cover, then loosen pump and let drop towards the drivers fender.
2) Disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle arm/lever on the pump.
3) Remove the TPS, AFC cover and diaphram/cone from inside.
4) Mark/note position of all the screws such as idle, full fuel, high idle etc.
5) Remove the idle screw, full fuel screw and high idle screw. This is
needed to access the 4 main allen screws that hold the pump top on. You
may get away with leaving one or two of the above screws in.
6) The allen screws on the back (engine side) of the pump top can be
hard to reach but you MUST have a good grip on them even if you need to
tap/hammer the allen key down into the allen heads. You really DON'T
want to break one off..
7) Remove the 4 allen screws.
The allen screw on the fender/front side of the pump (large 8mm) serves
more than one purpose. It holds the throttle shaft in place, the
spring(s) underneath such as the "breakover spring" and the head of
this allen screw is were the TPS shaft rides, on the auto tranny
equipped trucks. Once the screw is removed look down into the hole...
you'll see a tiny slender black stem with a slot in it. This slot
position is very important since it is the "index mark" for the
8) The allen screw noted comes off in the following order; allen screw,
throttle lever arm, breakover spring, washer, (at this point you should
see a flat plate with tick marks like a clock on it. Note the position
of the slender black stem in relation to the tick marks. In most cases
the slot in the stem will align with the second from bottom and second
from top tick marks... kinda like 4:00 and 10:00 so to speak.)
Try to leave the lower spring, cup, mount in place. If you have to
remove the entire assembly, pay attention to how the large spring is
anchored on each end, and the relationship of the plastic "cup
washers". Once you progress to removing the pump top, you will loose
some fuel from inside the pump so have a drip pan below to catch the
9) VERY CAREFULLY lift the pump top upward about 1 1/2" while looking
at the back (firewall end)engine corner inside. You should see a
slotted piece of metal with a what looks like a tophat w/tiny spring IN
the slot (careful this puppy can jump out on you once you've removed
the governor spring attached to it and, an extra pair of hands makes
this part easier). On the inside END of the tophat is the one end of
the gov. spring. Using forceps or tiny needle nose pliers, carefully
unhook the spring from the end of the tophat.
10) Turn pump top over and remove the other end of the gov. spring from
under the pump top. At this point we need to go back to the "guide pin"
that pops out inside the AFC housing... you had to push it into it's
hole to get the diaphram out.... what you need to do, before putting
the top of the pump back on is wiggle the little lever on the inside of
the pump to push the guide pin back out into the diaphram hole. This
helped me get the top of the pump back on without getting "hung up". Do
what works for you.
11) Attach one end of the new gov spring to the underside of the pump
top, and very carefully attach the other end to the same spot on the
tophat. (don't worry, you can't put the spring in the wrong place, just
be slow and careful.) Turn the pump top over and roughly set the shaft
with the index slot in it.... that assures the internal lever with the
spring is in the right location for proper rotation.
12) Lower the pump top back down in place, shifting it slightly to seat it in place.
13) Check your index marks as you begin the reverse process of assembly. (Most mistakes are done here so take your time)
14) Tighten the allen screws to "just right ft/lbs torque"
(sorry I don't have torque specs for this but you should be able to tighten by feel.)
15) Reverse the proccess of dissasembly and tighten as you go.
16) Once all the screws, AFC, housing,TPS, etc are in place, return
pump to timing marks you made on the pump body/gear case and tighten it
down. Here you'll have to get as close as possible to original screw
positions for your idle, high idle, full fuel etc.
When you've gone over everything 3 or 4 times to make sure you've done everything, you're ready to try a start up and idle.
**NOTE** Remove the air inlet tube from the turbo inlet and move to the
side. Have an emergency board or whatever to cover the turbo inlet in
case of runaway condition. BTW, using your hand could qualify you for
the handicap award and being named 3 finger Dave.
A second set of hands helps here too, while you activate the manual
shutdown lever (in case of runaway) your help can cover the front of
the turbo to starve the engine of air)
17) Start the truck..... hope it keeps running. It may need several tries due to fuel loss from removing the pump top.
It should pretty much start right up.. it may stumble and clear up OR,
you'll have to re-prime using the lift pump handle or plugging the
filler spout with a rag and shooting compressed air in with a
nozzle/air hose to force fuel thru to the pump. (If you do it this way,
make sure someone is watching the low pressure bleed screw on the side
of the block and tighten it when you get a steady stream of fuel from
If it starts with some throttle but will not remain running at idle, it
mat be necessary to re-index the throttle lever shaft to the index mark.
At this point it should be running. Try 'burping' the throttle a few
times. Make sure that the engine returns to idle promptly as it did
before the spring change. If it lingers at higher RPM and slowly drops down, take that as a sign of being close to runaway condition
Back out the full fuel screw 1/4 ~ 1/2 turn, restart and try again. I
also recommend running your high idle screw in a fair bit to make sure
you can "work up to" you intended high idle setting and avoid RPM
flare. You should be able to reset your low idle, full fuel, etc
without too much trouble.
Take a test drive at this point and watch your EGT's, idle, etc.