Save your $1500 VP44 injection pump!! Stock fuel pumps on these Dodges
are aweful, and their solution, the intank pump, isn't much better!
My 2001 had the LP replaced with the intank module
I was seeing 7 psi on idle, and as low as 3.5 psi on WOT
I ordered a Draw Straw II, big line & FP relocation kit from Vulcan.
Here's the install. Took about 4 hours time, nothing too difficult.
Vulcan didn't include hose clamps for the fittings, so I bought these -
just to be sure.
The pump is a Cummins Campaign pump, NIB
1. I drove down the fuel level as far as practical, especially given
the intank pump, we siphoned out the rest. I got down to less than 1
gallon left
2. Reaching behind the rear quarter panel, I loosened the hose clamps
and remove the fuel filler hose from the tank to the gas nozzle, and
the other hose. Left these loose.
3. Then loosened the (2) 15mm bolts holding the fuel tanks straps in place
4. Lowered the tank, unhooked the electrical connection and the (2)
fuel line connections from the top of the tank. The electrical
connection has a slide release, and a push tab. The fuel lines had a
couple releases to press in, then get pulled off.
5. Dropped the tank entirely. It's pretty light when empty of fuel,
maybe 30 lbs, easily handled by one person, though it's size is awkward
6. Removed tank. Per Vulcan's instructions, remove the fuel pump
assembly using a wood block and hammer. Luckily, my lock ring came
loose easily
7. Drilled a hole in the tank for the draw straw II using a wood drill
kit's 1 1/4" hole saw. We held a coffee can in through the fp hole to
catch the drill debris. Worked great.
8. Sized the depth of the draw straw, per instructions. Took it to a
grinder to angle the bottom, smooth the edges to ensure any impact with
the tank wouldn't puncture it. We left about a 1/4" of clearance. I
never run the tank below 1/2 anyway.
9. Installed the draw straw, reinstalled the intank FP so the fuel
level gauge will work (also provides the inlet for the fuel return.
Used the supplied cap to cap off the larger fuel line lead - the
output, and secured that with wire twist job. A zip tie, or small hose
clamp would work too. Took the shorter new hose, pressed the hose onto
draw straw and secured with a hose clamp, hook the JIC into the
adapter. We used locktite thread sealer (not thread locker) to seal all
the threads. Pipe tape would have been an option.
10. Installed the tank, hooked up the stock fuel return line (clips on), hooked up the electrical lead. (clips on)
11. Ran the fuel line along the frame rail, inside of the body mounts. (see pics)
12. My truck had an adapter block when the normal engine mounted pump
is located, put there when Dodge did the intank retrofit. I unhooked
all of that, and all of the fuel rails from the VP44 to the filter and
the filter back. I also unhooked the FP power line, and plugged the
supplied Vulcan extension lead. I used the supplied plastic conduit to
protect the lead, and ran it back to about the front of the tank. I did
this to ensure I had enough lead before I tried to position the new FP
13. I found a good place to mount the pump, where the power line
extension would reach, yet the fuel line from the tank would also
reach. I installed the (2) JIC adapters to the pump, then mounted the
pump, attached the power line, trimmed the fuel line, installed a JIC
swivel adapter to the hose, and attached the hose to the IN on the
pump. Please note that I used the mounting bracket as a reinforcement
plate, NOT as a true mounting bracket. Hence, the picture may look a
little confusing to some.
14. I then put a JIC swivel on the end of the longer hose, a JIC
adapter on the pump OUT, and attached the hose to the front of the pump.
15. I ran the hose along the rail, and fished it up into the engine
compartment, trimmed it to a length appropriate to attach to the fuel
filter, attached a JIC swivel, put a JIC adapter in the fuel filter
inlet, and attached the hose from the FP to the fuel filter
16. At this point, I hit a problem. It *appeared* that Vulcan didn't
supply enough JIC's to finish the job. I had one for a 1/2" ID hose,
and one for a 3/8" ID hose. Hmm, doesn't work to run the big hose from
the fuel filter to the VP44. So I used the stock metal/rubber hose
assembly with banjo bolts. I will get another JIC from them, but it
works for now.
I went from 7 psi idle, 3.5 psi WOT to 15 psi idle, and 10 psi WOT!!
The fuel pump is noisy in the cabin. Probably because I didn't mount it
to the frame, I mounted to the cab. I will try some rubber sheet to
insulate, but ultimately a Walbro will replace it.
Thanks VULCAN!!
Top of the tank connections:
Tank dropped:
Tank removed:
Looking into FP hole in tank:
Intank FP hole with pump removed:
Tank:
Drilling 1 1/4" hole for Draw Straw II:
Hole:
Cutting the Draw Straw to length:
POS intank pump
Draw Straw II in position:
Reinstalling intank pump (necessary for the fuel gauge and return line)
Locking in place:
My location for the fuel pump:
Power lead and large hose running along frame rail
I don't have good pics in the engine compartment of the rest of the installation
