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 »  Home  »  2nd Gen 24V Articles  »  Performance Upgrades  »  AFS Walbro Fuel System Install
AFS Walbro Fuel System Install
By Scott 3*ton*of*fun | Published  04/3/2007 | Performance Upgrades | Unrated
AFS Walbro Fuel System Install
This write up is for the AFS Big Dog Fuel System with Walbro GSL 392 pump on a 98.5 - 2002. The kit comes complete with everything you need to install on your truck so long as you still have the original fuel module and not the in-tank lift pump. If you do you will just need to install a Draw Straw.

First Thing I did was position myself underneath the truck between the bed and frame by the back wheel. You need to get to get your hand up under the bed and remove your Fuel Supply Line from the fuel module. This is the larger of the two lines and should be the one towards the back of the truck when looking at the fuel module. This can be a pain, but it can be done. There are tabs on the top and bottom of the fuel line that need to be "collapsed" so the fuel line can slip off. If all else fails you will have to drop the tank or you can cut the fuel line in front of the tank and start your install there, but I was able to get mine off. Once the fuel Line is off you need to remove the plastic clamp on the fuel module.

Next I headed to the front of the truck to remove the ECM connection at the lift pump. Your Lift Pump is Located just below the Fuel Filter Canister. Look for a grey connector - Push down on the clip and pull it apart. Now unhook the fuel line at the inlet to the fuel filter and remove the fuel line from the lift pump. Next you can unbolt the lift pump from the bracket and get the source of all your troubles away from your truck. Make sure you leave the bracket attached to the engine.



Now from your kit you can install the Metric Adapter and 90 Degree fitting into the inlet of the Fuel Cannister.



Next you need to mount your relay and circuit breaker and hook up the pink trigger wire to the OEM connector for the lift pump. I waited till the end to hook up the + & - to the battery. The kit includes cable ties and velcro to mount the relay and circuit breaker. I chose a sheet metal screw for the relay and mounted it to the firewall and a screw, lockwasher, and nut and mounted to the "shelf" by the hood spring.


Next step is to Mount your pump. Start by mounting the bracket. You will have to remove one of the fuel line clasp. Choose the one that best fits your application. Re-use the screw from the fuel line clasp to mount your bracket. Now you are ready to slide the pump into place and mount it with the rubber clamps. The sticker on my bracket is actually from chrysler. That is the sticker they are supposed to install when the put the intank pump in. It says Caution: Fuel system has been modified from it's original form. I thought it was quite "fitting" for my application.



Now you are ready to run your fuel line. I figured a length to go from the fuel module down to the pump. I tucked my fuel line inside the frame and "fished" it down towards the pump. Attach fuel line at the module. Next put your pre-filter in, then you need a small piece of line to go from the pre-filter to the fuel pump. Next you can figure a length to go from the outlet of the pump to the inlet of the filter. I chose to run the fuel line inside the frame rail and right up to the fuel filter cannister. I found it easier to remove the Push-lock fittings and attach them to the fuel line then connect. Now you can run your red & black wires from your relay back to your fuel pump. I ran them through the frame also. Hook up your pump. Red is +, black is -.

Back up underneath the back of the truck to cut the Fuel Fill Line. Instructions say to remove it, but I had great success leaving it attached and using a small hacksaw to cut it, and install the "Tee" so I didn't have to remove it. Now you can figure a length of line to go from the "Tee" you just installed to the Fuel Pump Return.



Now hook up the the 2 connections at the battery from the relay. Double check all fittings and connections. When you are satisfied - bump the starter and let the pump cycle - double check for leaks - if everything is ok - go ahead and bump the starter to cycle pump one more time then try and start. If your engine does not start you may have to crack an injector or so to bleed any air from the lines.

Check your fuel pressure gauge to determine if fuel pressure is adequate. If not you may have to adjust the bypass regulator. When I started my truck up it carried 16psi at idle - so I didn't make any adjustments.

That's it - I had about 3.5 hours in doing mine with some help from my dad. We did a lot of double check and taking time to do it right.

A lot of the kit comes pre assembled like the fuel pump, regulator and relay wiring harness. It also has a good set of instructions including some black and white pics - overall a very nice kit for the money. Check out http://wideopendiesel.com/page8.html for more info - Jason will be happy to help you

Hope this helps someone

Scott
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